SUSPENSION CHECK LIST

[FirstTimer]

It sounds like the general concensus is to mix and match all the best parts, OME coils and shocks, Currie control arms, etc.  By doing this do you risk messing with the geometry too much though?  I would have thought that if you buy a completed lift/suspension kit from one company it would work better together as it was designed to complement each individual part and its main function...  Is this a naive belief to have? 

[JackstandJohnny]

not naive.

most of us have (at some point) bought 'off the shelf' kits'  and have learnt what works, what doesn't, and learn how to tweak what we'd done.  Hps4evr had a good thought out build that could suit your needs, but if you don't know for sure, then off the shelf kits aren't a bad option either, and they're a good place to start; mind you, it could very well be 'money wasted' when you realize you actually, want/need something completely different.  (been there too)  

for what its worth, i'd stay small and cheap to start:  that way you aren't into it for too much down the road.  that zone kit for 3" is a decent deal, or a 2" budget boost, is also a good option.

then when your done with either 300$ kit, pull it, sell it on Kijiji for 100$ and spend the money on the kit you really want.......... think of it as the cost of learning.

i remember back in the ZJ days, i was into a shortarm lift (all RE stuff, best stuff you can buy at the time) for over 3k....... long arm kits eventually became cheaper, and it was actually what i wanted, but i'd dropped so much on the short arms stuff i had to keep it....


in short, start small, see what works, what you want.......... 2 - 3" kit and 33s or 32s.... good starting point.

[Bnine]

It sounds like the general concensus is to mix and match all the best parts, OME coils and shocks, Currie control arms, etc.  By doing this do you risk messing with the geometry too much though?  I would have thought that if you buy a completed lift/suspension kit from one company it would work better together as it was designed to complement each individual part and its main function...  Is this a naive belief to have? 

Not naive, that just isnt how it works.

Most suspensions in the form of "kits" take significant short cuts and leave out key components in order to maintain profit margins.

The closest thing you will ever find to complete suspension is a full currie 4" system, but to an experienced builder that lift is actually taller then whats ideal.

I build several complete bottom up dual purpose TJ's per year. The best results I've had, and the recipe I have stuck to for 5 TJ's has been as follows.

Springs OME ZJ/LJ combo (nets just under 3" of lift)
Currei hd front trackbar (TJJ)
bilstein 5100, or ome shocks (prefer bilstein due to better valving and packaging)
JKS 1.25" body lift w/1"mml
Currie hd steering
Currie johnny jointed control arms, custom built with heavy wall tubing
Swaylock front swaybar
Currie antirock rear sway bar
Genrite rear shock outboard kit

Everything is doable in stages and all the components are the absolute best of the best and ultra low maintenance. The end result is a short arm TJ that will articulate with a longarmed rig, drive down the road with 1 finger at 70mph, ride better then stock, and corner like a car.

I've been building TJ for myself and others for 10 years. If someone finds me a better dual purpose recipe then this, I am all ears.

[frenchy]

If someone finds me a better dual purpose recipe then this, I am all ears.

Replace the following 5 components on your list with ORI's ! 

Springs OME ZJ/LJ combo (nets just under 3" of lift)
bilstein 5100, or ome shocks (prefer bilstein due to better valving and packaging)
Swaylock front swaybar
Currie antirock rear sway bar
Genrite rear shock outboard kit

And add a tummy tuck for good measure. 

[Bnine]

Thats a different build and certainly not a street legal one.

Once I cut the back of the frame off and narrow it, we've kind of gone past the point of no return

That, and I always have a hard time finding volunteers to give me 10 grand up front in order to set them up with 4 shocks.

[FirstTimer]

Well it looks like I've got a pretty good idea going foward with what I'd like to do suspension-wise.  Thanks everyone for your input, and keep it coming if anyone has any different ideas.  But as I've learned a good suspension isn't just about the springs, shocks, etc (or maybe it is)...  What about skid plates, and body armour, and performance parts like, cold air intake, exhaust, gear ratios, and all that complecated stuff that makes your Jeep run better, faster and stronger on and off road.

Any advice there?

[frenchy]

Thats a different build and certainly not a street legal one.

Once I cut the back of the frame off and narrow it, we've kind of gone past the point of no return

That, and I always have a hard time finding volunteers to give me 10 grand up front in order to set them up with 4 shocks.

I'm hoping for no frame cutting (doesn't need moonbuggy articulation), well under 10K, streetable with ORI's.

Let me gather some thoughts, specs and examples....
I'll start a new thread after my vacation and you can confirm or shoot down the geometry and cost value vs. functionality investment.

[w squared]

Well it looks like I've got a pretty good idea going foward with what I'd like to do suspension-wise.  Thanks everyone for your input, and keep it coming if anyone has any different ideas.  But as I've learned a good suspension isn't just about the springs, shocks, etc (or maybe it is)...  What about skid plates, and body armour, and performance parts like, cold air intake, exhaust, gear ratios, and all that complecated stuff that makes your Jeep run better, faster and stronger on and off road.

Any advice there?

#1. Start coming to meetings and trail runs. If you let us, we will yap about our rigs and what we like about 'em and what sux about 'em all day.

#2. Since you're seeing us in person and seeing whose rig can actually perform, you'll be able to judge who's a web wheeler with a large ego and empty head, and who has taken the time to learn.

#3. You'll probably learn a lot more about what YOU want YOUR rig to be, and what you want to do with it. That's the single most important thing to learn. You'll probably come away saying "As long as my rig doesn't drive like a green JK, I'm happy."

[JackstandJohnny]

#2. Since you're seeing us in person and seeing whose rig can actually perform, you'll be able to judge who's a web wheeler with a large ego and empty head, and who has taken the time to learn.

or just who has a large head

[w squared]

or just who has a large head

Glass houses, Johhny. Glass houses.

[tubby]

or just who has a large head

That's no moon. It's a space station...





Wsquared is right. Come to a meeting and eyeball some modified rigs and ask questions. We'll geek-out with you all day. This thread can go on forever about what to do and what not to do. It's your Jeep and your money. There's no rush to modify.

[FiEND]

plus there's over 20,000 posts in this forum to re-search through

[FirstTimer]

I agree about needing actual "feild" experience with this whole thing.  Working six days a week can be a killer though!  I'm hoping to hit up Maclean Creek as soon as possible so I can see some nices rigs in motion rather then imagining what they perform like.  On the other side, coming to a meeting or a trail run without any info would leave me scratching my head.  So alteast this way I some foundation to build my wheeling goals and dreams on!

I've been reading through threads for days!!! Which has helped, but sometimes products and opinions change, and new members come and go, so its always nice to get a fresh up-date perspective!

When is the next run/meeting? Not seeing anything scheduled for newbies in the near future?

[Bnine]

I'm hoping for no frame cutting (doesn't need moonbuggy articulation), well under 10K, streetable with ORI's.

Let me gather some thoughts, specs and examples....
I'll start a new thread after my vacation and you can confirm or shoot down the geometry and cost value vs. functionality investment.

If you are brainstorming Serge, you can go look at Rock Krawlers old coil over conversion. They put coil overs on a wrangler without cutting, but it was only an 8" travel coil over.

If you strickly frame french some mounts you can get a 12-14" in there with 4 plus inch of lift, but anything larger then a 2" coil over with springs needs shallow pack space and wheelspacers, to even start fitting.

I'll be doing Denise's 12" coil overs in the back this year with minimal cutting. Stop down some time if you are looking to do some brain storming.

And bring one of those snazzy shocks with you