Help with 35"s - Stock Rims? If not what rims?

[silverfox]

Ok here goes.

I have read about a million threads on a hundred boards and I don't have a definitive answer so at risk of getting blasted I have more questions.

I know I don't need 35"s on the Rubi but I do want them.  What I don't really care to do is switch rims.............I like the stockers and my intention is to have them powder coated black assuming I can do what I want.

As I said I have read many threads on people that say you can and people that say you can't put 35's on the 17" 7.5 stock rims.  Now the common response on the tires that say can are that I will need 1.5" spacers.  I am ok with that and it seems that the predominate preference out there is the 1.5" Spidertrax.........so that would be the answer to spacers.  As far as clearance I am going with the Bushwacker Flat Flares so rubbing will not be an issue.

I don't want to lift the rig yet.............not sure I will at this point.  I like the idea of the lower center of gravity on my DD but still enough of an aggressive tire at 35" for plenty of wheeling.  If I do go lift it will prob only be 2" but that will come later.

So the simple question is after all that diatribe is this.  Can I safely and legally put 35" tires on my 17 by 7.5 stock rims?  I know that people have done it............that doesn't mean it is a wise idea.

I ask here mostly because it seems to me that many many more of you are far more mechanically inclined than I see on other boards - I don't trust the opinion of some yahoo that knows a guy that knows a guy that will put on you the tires and balance them for you.  I do want the 35's and I prefer my stockers but I want to be smart about it.  Also I figure it this way.............I am hoping and planning on spending a lot of time on here and getting to know a bunch of you (starting on New Years Day) and given the general rules and guidelines around safe wheeling that it is less likely that you guys would steer me wrong.

I have asked a couple of tire sellers as well but my concern there is that to sell $1,000 plus of rubber they may not be entirely honest with me.

In the event that the answer is no...............what would you all recommend would be a good price to ask/get for 5 stock BF Goodrich Tires and Rims with less than 2,500 KM on them.

Also what rims would you recommend.  I am not about "Bling" for rims I want a strong, light, good sealing, workhorse..........preferably in black?


Thanks again guys, I know I have asked a lot of questions...........but they are not arbitrary ones and I have used your advise on several purchases already (CB - Unicom 510xl, Bushwacker Flats, Wilson 4ft Flex, Cooltech Aerial mount, Susquehanna MotorSports Hella4 Headlight upgrade) .......................... Damn I think I have a disease

[w squared]

Come talk to me on the New Year's day run. The JK is different from previous Jeep models in it's ability to fit 35's without a lot of mods, and I've done some learning over the past two years as to what works and what doesn't when it comes to 35's on a JK.

I run 35's on stock Rubi wheels. One set of 35X12.5R17 Toyos, and one set of 315/70R17 Duratracs. They both work just fine. To be honest with you, running a 12.5 wide tire on a 7.5 wide rim probably contribtues to being able to run 9 psi offorad and stil have pretty good luck when it comes to my tires staying on my wheels. There are a large number of ways to accomplish 35's on a JK, and I think I can help guide you through it. What you really need to figure out is what you want to do with your rig...that'll determine what the correct way to fit 35's is...or if 35's are right for you. 33's may be the way to go...no way to tell until you've decided what you want your rig to be able to do, and where your priorities lie.

The stuff that you've purchased so far will work for any of the things that you're likely to want to do with your Jeep. The next steps that you're looking at (big tires, spacers, and potentially a lift) start getting into territory where making one change may affect a LOT of other components on your rig...and start getting expensive. Has anyone talked to you about what 35's will do to you regarding unit bearings? How about what type of transmission you have, and what effect that will have on you regarding driveshafts at various lift heights? What about reprogramming your shift points if you've got an automatic? There are a lot of variables to consider, and it takes time to get a good handle on them.

[silverfox]

Come talk to me on the New Year's day run. The JK is different from previous Jeep models in it's ability to fit 35's without a lot of mods, and I've done some learning over the past two years as to what works and what doesn't when it comes to 35's on a JK.

I run 35's on stock Rubi wheels. One set of 35X12.5R17 Toyos, and one set of 315/70R17 Duratracs. They both work just fine. To be honest with you, running a 12.5 wide tire on a 7.5 wide rim probably contribtues to being able to run 9 psi offorad and stil have pretty good luck when it comes to my tires staying on my wheels. There are a large number of ways to accomplish 35's on a JK, and I think I can help guide you through it. What you really need to figure out is what you want to do with your rig...that'll determine what the correct way to fit 35's is...or if 35's are right for you. 33's may be the way to go...no way to tell until you've decided what you want your rig to be able to do, and where your priorities lie.

The stuff that you've purchased so far will work for any of the things that you're likely to want to do with your Jeep. The next steps that you're looking at (big tires, spacers, and potentially a lift) start getting into territory where making one change may affect a LOT of other components on your rig...and start getting expensive. Has anyone talked to you about what 35's will do to you regarding unit bearings? How about what type of transmission you have, and what effect that will have on you regarding driveshafts at various lift heights? What about reprogramming your shift points if you've got an automatic? There are a lot of variables to consider, and it takes time to get a good handle on them.

Sooooo

The answer is I have given a lot of thought to some of what you mentioned

The 35's from my understanding will be fine on the 4:1 with a manual shift on it at this point I don't plan on upgrading.  The 4:1 will provide for a good mix of DD and Offroad use again this is all from reading a ton of info and trying to filter the good from the bad.

As for Unit bearings, I am assuming that the 35's will be harder on them and therefore they will need to be swapped out earlier than would necessarily be the case without bigger tires.  That and wheeling can't be good for them given a higher amount of mud and water getting at them.  I am also assuming that there are after market ones out there that are better than the stockers so when it comes time to replace the stockers I would upgrade.

From a lift perspective I am looking at a balance of offroad capability and daily driver so I don't want much of a lift.  I am planning on trying out none with the 35's and then seeing how that works for me.  In the event I do want to lift I will address it then but even looking forward I am thinking between 1.5 to 2.5 inches which again from my limited understanding allows me to maintain the current drive line components (drive shaft and suspension parts)  clearly if it gets more than that I will replace what is needed to make the rig safe and as minimal strain on drive line components and suspension components as possible.  I don't believe in compromising either strength or safety just to save a few bucks.

Tranny is the 6spd manual and that was part of the reason for purchasing the standard was it has a higher range of versatility than the automatic..............my 07 was an automatic and while nice to drive in commuter traffic I don't think it stood up to wheeling the way I would like it to have........sometimes it was great, others I found it too be lacking.

There are a ton of variables to look into which is part of why I posted what I did.  I want to make sure I am making as educated decisions as possible and that they are going to be in alignment with what I want but also not compromise the vehicle.

And don't worry I will talk to you plenty on New Year's   You may regret having offered that    Thanks for the thoughts.

[w squared]

35's will be fine with a 6 speed, 4.10's, and a 4:1 transfer case...but...you're still going to notice a definite performance difference on the road. Not a good one.  It's definitely something that you can live with, but you're not going to be winning any drag races.

35's and the decreased backsapcing needed to clear them will indeed lunch your unit bearings at an alarming rate  As far as I know, there is not an upgraded aftermarket product available for the JK's.

I understand not wanting to lift too much because of daily driving realities - my commute to work is 50 km one way. That said, a three inch lift doesn't cause me any issues at all...because I did it properly. I'd also say that the lift I ended up with (OME/Currie/JKS frankenlift) flexes quite nicely offroad for a 3 inch short arm. It sounds like you're looking for much the same I am - the best performance increase that you can get for offorad without making a substantial sacrifice in road manners and driveability.

[hps4evr]

http://spyntec.com/category/jeep-jk-07-09-spyntec-hub-conversion-kit/

this is one of the only upgrades for unit bearings for jk's. its not cheap but its out there/ i have heard of a few minor issues with them but that was when they first came out a couple years ago. i would think they solved the problem. i think dynatrac has something as well.
35's on stock rubi rims should fit with those wheel spacers and flares. if you're worried about them rubbing the control arms you could run a narrow 35" , i believe bfg has 35x1050R17 available. depends which tire you want though.
w squared is pointing you in the right direction. his jeep is set-up how you want. and if you need more power they make all the goodies too, exhaust, intake, programmer, superchargers

[silverfox]

I saw those.........big fix for a not super expensive part.

I would say the biggest concern on the unit bearings is getting them changed before they seize..........presumably some reasonable maintenance checks (looking for play in the wheel when up off the ground) every say 3,000 to 5,000km or if there is an indication of a problem and replacing them is the way to go.  You wouldn't want one of those to go at highway speeds, at the low end it could cause some nasty damage........at the high end a person could wind up seriously injured or dead.

Changing them out seems relatively easy other than they take a little "persuasion" to get off.  Now that is going by what I have read not from personal experience. Closest I would have come was swapping out the axle bearings and wheel hub assembly on my expedition............they wore prematurely ............ most likely from hauling my 32ft trailer through the mountains every summer.

[AV.NINE]

I ran 40x17" boggers on my 08 2dr with 4.10s, while I kissed my 6th gear good bye it still held highway speed.

Do the 35s, if your already thinking about regretting 33s then just don't do it.

DO NOT RUN WHEEL SPACERS. They are NOT a solution here. Zone offroad sells black steelie (super strong) rims for about $60. They won't win you a fashion show but will be a lot stronger then aluminum rims or wheel spacers. Judging from your recent posts on here I'm kind of judging your not an install everything myself, do all my own maintenance kind of guy. (No offense)

That being said, wheel spacers are hard on bearings, require maintenance, and IMO should be used only in emergencies. Yes people have run them with success but when any step is left out of installing or maintaining spacers the results are horrendous and can be life threatening.
Not to mention for the cost of wheel spacers you can almost get new rims.

Again, no offense its all IMO.

[Zombie]

what kind of maintenance do the spacers require, outside of taking the wheels off to check the torque a time or two when installed?

and the spacers and higher offset wheels will still be a pain on the unit bearings, if the end offset is the same, it will not make a huge difference on stress on the vehicle between the two

[w squared]

Good quality spacers (and I'd like to emphasize GOOD) will not harm your unit bearings or your rig any more than a wheel with equivalent backspacing will. BUT...like AVNine says, you will want to understand how to install them, and for peace of mind I do it myself. Even when I get a tire rotation thrown in with a balancing or alignment, I make it clear to the techs that the wheel spacers stay right where they're at. Red loc-tite, a wire brush, and a good (accurate) torque wrench are needed for an install on wheel spacers. It isn't rocket science by any means, but it does call for attention to detail.

Silverfox, just to give you a heads up, I got 50,000 K out of my first set of unit bearings...but not all of that was with the 35's on. +/- $500 to replace the stock units. Add another $500 if you want a shop to do 'em for you. It's not rocket science to change 'em though.

Heeps, that looks like a pretty skookum conversion. My problem is that I've got a pile of 17 inch 5 on 5 wheels that I'd be getting rid of. I think I'll probably make the switch, but I'll have to save a few pennies. Just like I need to for a rear bumper. And to straighten out my steering geometry. And upgrade my tie rod. And new fenders...

[silverfox]

I ran 40x17" boggers on my 08 2dr with 4.10s, while I kissed my 6th gear good bye it still held highway speed.

Do the 35s, if your already thinking about regretting 33s then just don't do it.

DO NOT RUN WHEEL SPACERS. They are NOT a solution here. Zone offroad sells black steelie (super strong) rims for about $60. They won't win you a fashion show but will be a lot stronger then aluminum rims or wheel spacers. Judging from your recent posts on here I'm kind of judging your not an install everything myself, do all my own maintenance kind of guy. (No offense)

That being said, wheel spacers are hard on bearings, require maintenance, and IMO should be used only in emergencies. Yes people have run them with success but when any step is left out of installing or maintaining spacers the results are horrendous and can be life threatening.
Not to mention for the cost of wheel spacers you can almost get new rims.

Again, no offense its all IMO.

Couple things here.

One......no offense ever taken, if you don't want someones opinion then you shouldn't ask for it.  I know I ask a ton of questions and that has a couple of effects........it rubs some people the wrong way and it often portrays me as not having a clue.  While I will admit to not having done a lot of modification or mechanical work in recent years on my vehicles I am not afraid to turn a wrench, nor am I afraid to have a fellow Jeeper sit in my garage and drink my beer/coffee and smoke my cigars while pointing at things and telling me what to do.    I do however like to know everything about what I am doing when it comes to my vehicle, doing something half assed without knowing what can go wrong and what the impacts are can not only be costly but damn dangerous.  So I appreciate the feedback and peoples honest opinions.

I like the steelies option.......I have never been a huge fan of Alloy rims...........but, what about weight?  Is there a significant difference in them vs alloy? 

Now that we are talking switching rims is it better to downsize to a 16" vs a 17"  and what would the reasoning be one way or the other?  Seems to me based on my limited searching I have had a harder time locating 35" wheels that would fit on my 17" rims but that was more likely due to the 7.5" width than the 17"s.

I am assuming based on my experience that steelies hold a seal better than Alloy, but will that be the case at lower pressure as well?

Alloy is a better heat conductor...........does that have any impact on brakes??  I can't see how it would in the conditions I would be in but can't hurt to ask.

Again thanks for all opinions, I like to be well informed before I do something and there is a vast level of experience and know how on this board.

[AV.NINE]

Zombie, that would be the maintenance. Checking torque 3 times minimal.

Personally, my preference is steel rims. The weight isn't a huge factor when it come to wheels for me. I would prefer strength over weight.

Sounds like your on the right track bud, you ever need a hand give me a call.

[Zombie]

Zombie, that would be the maintenance. Checking torque 3 times minimal.

Personally, my preference is steel rims. The weight isn't a huge factor when it come to wheels for me. I would prefer strength over weight.

Sounds like your on the right track bud, you ever need a hand give me a call.

I see, more a pain in the but when first installing them and if you have to remove them to replace the unit bearings or brakes.

[AV.NINE]

And that's the problem is guys end up getting lazy... Then disaster strikes.

[Unknown303]

I have 35's with a 6 speed, 4.10's, and a 4:1 transfer case.  Stock rims with a 1.5" spacer.  While I definitely can't offroad it right now until I get the fenders installed they definitely fit and are decent for driving around town right now.  6 gear stil works great.  I see downshifting a lot more for hills in my future but other then that I'm really enjoying the feel of 35's on the Rubicon.

[silverfox]

Ok this wheel tire crap is making me psycho. 

So........I think I am going to go with steel wheels..........for a few reasons.  I like them, they are more durable, and well hell they are cheaper.  So that part is said and done.

Now the questions. 

I want to put 35" tires on them............not sure which ones yet but I am looking at

• Nitto MudGrappler's - I don't care about noise but I do care about road safety so maybe the Trail Grapplers are a better choice
• Nokian Vatiiva's - I love Nokian tires and have run there winter rated all seasons on my vehicles for about 10 years now but haven't heard anything about the Vatiiva's
• Toyo Open Country MT's - I know many of you love them but they don't do much for me.....having said that it is about performance not preference........also my understanding is these are very pricey
• Procomp xtreme MT's - don't know much about these but they are highly rated out in cyber-land
• ??

So what else should I be looking at..........I have read the threads on tires and to be honest they are of little help as it all seems to be personal preference.  I am looking for the best value so a reasonably priced tire that will perform well in all conditions. 

Then the questions become..........how do I know what backspacing for which tire?  Also do I want bigger or smaller rims?  16's 17's???  What and why?  I know there are sizing issues with regard to the calipers rubbing etc but what else do I need to think about.

I don't wan the rig to look goofy but at the same time I want to get the best all around performance out of my selections.

I am having a hell of a time even finding a variety of steel rims......not that I need a ton of variety but it would be nice to have some choices.  The only online place I see is Zone and they have Rock Crawlers only............who else carries what and how much $$$.

A man can get dizzy trying to figure all this out