built 44's or go with the 60

[Rubi03 jef]

$5... I'll give you $10, just because you have taken such great care of it.

5$ will get you a swift kick in the BEEP   hahahahah   just bugging .. come on people some serious thought would be great

[LukeDuke]

I run a full width HP44 in the front with 38’s. It is open but I wheel the squirt out of it below 5 psi with beadlocks I have a 14 in the rear and the wheel base is sitting right about 98 inches. I drive it 120km to the trail wheel all day for 2 days and drive it home. Most of the time pulling my M101 full of gear. . I have never had a problem with ball joints, u-joint or death wobble steering or anything. D44 are pretty tough, especially ones from ¾ tone trucks. And you can find parts for them anywhere. Junk yards, Napa ( in stock) and even guys on the trail. If you’re getting into the rock a lot and have the money, go D60. If your trail riding with the occasional rock and know how to drive, D44 do me just fine. Only have about 1G into the front and rear diffs including the Detroit for the 14B.  Just my 2c. Either way, full width on 38’s is a must and any full size D44 will be strong then the rubi 44.

[Bnine]

If you are seriously considering selling, you would be best to look at going back to stock.

Your jeep is actually worth more stock.

Start with finding a stock runi that wants your gears. Have him pay about half of what it would cost to do gears and swap diffs.

You get 1000 or so dollars, and he gets gears for half price.

Put some stock rubber and suspension under it, and save all your stuff for your build, or sell it for build funds.

Sell the rubi and get into a 97-02 tj.

With the diff swap, price difference, and money from parts, you should have a minimum of 10k to go towards a 38's build.

Or you can sell you buit diffs for around 4k, tires an suspension for 1500 or so and start with 5500 towards the build.

Up to you.

It would be nice to be out of the 6 speed, mercedes steering box, late model cam sensor, and emission heavy camshaft.

The 97-99 has the most power due to a less restrictive cam profile.

Oh ya, and pre 03 models have upgradeable alternators via various junk yard swaps. The late models dont because the mounting is all changed.

Hopefully that helps.

[JJonesee]

Its not a real D44, its a TJ D44. Strong - and will handle 38's and a 4.0.  If you break it - you can fix it.

D60's and 38's are going to cost you more than you realize.

Just a question - how many times have you broke the D30?

[AV.NINE]

Its not a real D44, its a TJ D44. Strong - and will handle 38's and a 4.0.  If you break it - you can fix it.

D60's and 38's are going to cost you more than you realize.

Just a question - how many times have you broke the D30?

He has 44s but is looking to move from 35s to 38's. Just to catch you up to speed...

[Rubi03 jef]

I want the insurance of the Dana 60 knowing that I wot break when in out in the middle of no where. My 44 has areas gone throughout factory shafts like candy and now with chromoly they have been great but the end result will

Be

Diesel engine 500 ft lbs of torque 350 hp
Dana 44 won't handle that.  So that's why I want 60's

My 4.0 is not staying in there