37" tires on 20" rim a bad idea for wheelin' ?

[Mud]

I'm considering picking up a used set of Nitto Mud Grapplers on 20" rims.... I know they look good in a parking lot, but how would they perform on the trail at 10 psi having a lower profile than say a 37" tire on 15" rim?

Thoughts appreciated.

Also, i'm wondering if anyone can give me some thoughts on availale mods to a normal suspension lift to gift it more flex with out having to buy a long arm kit.  Or should a guy just buck-up and do the long arm?

Thanks in advance for advice given.



 

[Immortal]

Just buck up an get the long arms... the short arms is what is limiting your downward travel.

[Mud]

Long arm it is. Thanks, Trevor.

[dubbleJs]

Long arm it is. Thanks, Trevor.

Haha, that was easy. Let me know what you find with your LA research, I'm doing the same right now. 

[Strawberry]

Or perhaps control arm drop brackets for the short arms? Pro's and con's of each direction you take.

Having said that, I think the only major 'con' with a long-arm set up done correctly would be the price tag. Dana just picked up a Clayton long-arm set for his next XJ build and wow is it ever beefy!

[Bnine]

Just buck up an get the long arms... the short arms is what is limiting your downward travel.

Thats not true. Stick to xj's Trev 

Long arms are overkill on TJ's. At the very most if you are looking into a high end suspension, look into something mid arm. Cost is similar to a long, usually less, performance on road is equal to a longarm, clearence is better, travel is equal, weight is less, the list goes on.

To clarify, short arms are not a limiting factor for suspension travel on a TJ. You can easily utilize the full potential of a 12" travel shock with short arm suspension.

The improvements that come with some long arm, and most mid arm suspensions have more to do with geometry changes, handling, and ride. I say some longarms, because most "off the shelf" long arms have very poor geometry characteristics and take way to many short cuts resulting in a sub par suspensions that you pay top dollar for.

Look to genrite and poly performance for info on mid arm stuff.

hth

[Bnine]

Oh, for the tires. If you can find a way, go with a 17" rim, with a 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern. Few reasons:

The bolt pattern is the most common for aftermarket and will swap over to 3/4 and 1 ton axles in the future. If you run 37's, those axles are in your future. Save 4 grand and only do the tires and rims once.

A 17" rim is big enough to fit on any brakes all the way up to one ton stuff, but is still very common for tires, making them affordable. The 17 is the new 15. You can get comp tires in 17", used tires are more common, and almost every brand does every tire in that size. 20's are more money, and harder to source.

Lastly, 17" aftermarket rims are cheaper and easier to source then 20's. Specially the beadlocks. Used or new, 17" beadlocks are everywhere. 20's, not so much.

hth

[Mud]

Always useful- thanks for the input guys!

[Bnine]

lol