Harmonic Balancer Removal -Help ASAP PLZ

[FirstTimer]

So I've spent the last day and a half working on my TJ...First half day went really well, then came today!
About 3 weeks ago I discovered I had a small leak coming from the front crank shaft seal, so I planned to fix this while the front axle and suspension were out giving me more room to work.  I did all the research, got all the tools and necessary parts and yet the bleeping son of bleep Harmonic Balancer will NOT come off.  I'm pretty sure I have everything lined up right, but the Haynes Manual and online info I've read make it look so easy, and I am having a hell of a time, so I'm worried I am doing something wrong and I'm going to wreck something. At this point I feel like I may already have done some damage to the hole where the bolt for the fan clutch goes as i reffed on tho puller so hard and the balancer didn't budge...
Here is a pic of how I have the puller set up, any advice would be helpful as I need to get this done ASAP, Thanks.

[The Machinist]

Once you have it tight tap the face of the harmonic balancer with a ball peen hammer, as it starts to come loose keep repeating these steps.  If you have someone to help you, you tighten while someone else taps.  Make sure to use one of the tapered seats in your puller set so you do not damage the threads in the nose of the crank.  If you have already damaged the threads make sure to chase them with a tap before trying to put everything back together.  Good luck.

[cLAY]

Make the the bolts are screwed in evenly. Looks like its cocked to the right a bit.

And as said jarring it the a hammer helps loosen it off.

[FirstTimer]

Tried the hammer thing, didn't help much, but kept the puller on all night under tension and will try again today. The part thats the worst is that its starting to wreck the threads on the crank shaft nose... Can I put a socket on the end to give more service area?

[raf2379]

put some muscle into it, use a braker bar if you have to. smack the main threded rod of the pully not the harmonic balancer it self. give it a good smack. if you tap the face of it chances are the isolator is taking the shock away from the taping, to shock load it you need to smack the main rod of the pully.

[FirstTimer]

Used a breaker bar with hi lift handle, the problem is theres barely any room so you have to use a bunch of extensions and a u joint socket and lose lots of torque... Do you mean smack the main rod of the puller, not the pulley?

[heep-a-lop]

on my 3800 i usually pull with a longer bolt in the hole as to not hurt threads.... if u have a impact it helps alot espically with some good air behind it......

but yeah a good size hammer to help break it loose once its loose it will come its getting that intial break that sucks... cause it either breaks or breaks(as in oh frack)

[FirstTimer]

Thats what I'm worried about, the "oh frack" break...

[heep-a-lop]

u might wanna try my bolt trick even if its only a few threads loose just engouh so u have something solid to push on till it moves or doesnt, that way the thing that should break will be a tool not a part

[FirstTimer]

I will for sure try that, should the bolt thread in or be a bit smaller in diameter?

[heep-a-lop]

see on my car i have a aftermarket balancer so it came with a shorter bolt, i use the stock longer bolt when pulling,  i dont know how long the jeep bolts are but i was thinking u might be able to losen it off like 3 or 4 threads just to use as a solid push point for the middle....  by the way anti seize is your friend when it goes back on

[FirstTimer]

perfect ill try that, thanks!

[FirstTimer]

Got it off!! Didn't use the bolt trick but used a 14mm socket at the end of the puller rod for a larger service area.

Thanks all for you help