97 ZJ transfer case question

[bitofaclue]

Hi, folks.  I'm just dropping one of these things (NP249) for the first time and am hoping educated hands will help me strike the right balance between my extreme laziness and the right way to do it.

Haynes (yeah, I know) says to pull the transmission support crossmember, take out both driveshafts, and the exhaust system.  Seems like a lot of stuff to me.  Can it be done easily without yanking all that first, or will it just suck that much more?  What's the minimum I can reasonably get away with?  Obviously I have to pull the rear driveshaft, but I'm hoping I can leave the front ds attached to the front diff.  And what about the upper transmission-to-transfer case bolts?  Best to get at them from above or below?

Thanks much!

Jonathan

[JackstandJohnny]

Lol


Yes pull driveshafts. Leave front connected that's fine.  And here's a life lesson for ya (jeep specific) its easier to remove stuff in your way then swear and cuss trying to work around it. Trust me.

As for the top bolts have fun. The words is use to describe getting that top bolt aren't allowed on this site. Grab a stubby 9/16". U don't have one? Buy one. You can't get a socket on those bolts. It sucks.

Good luck with it.

[bitofaclue]

Yeah, I understand.  Looks like I can do it without yanking the crossmember and having to support the tranny, though.  I see what you mean about that top bolt - nasty MF.  If there's nothing to be gained by going in from the top, I'll probably splurge on that 9/16" stubby in a gear wrench tomorrow.

And thanks again for the lead on that diff - got it installed yesterday and it sounds great.  If I can get this tcase swapped this weekend this damn thing may actually be long-tripworthy again.

[cLAY]

Those bolts are often stuck pretty good. If you use a gear wrench to break them loose you will screw up the gear wrench. Clean the threads with WD40 or something similar and a small brush. Break the bolt loose and go to town with the gear wrench. I find the full length flex gear wrenches more versatile than the stubbies if you are buying a whole set. If just buying one for this job then the stubby will be fine.

Spray some lube on the linkage before you try to pop it off. Watch for oil spilling from the tailshaft when you tip it, stuff a rag in.

[CatSplat]

Yeah, I understand.  Looks like I can do it without yanking the crossmember and having to support the tranny, though.  

I've always dropped the Xmember, it's 4 bolts and it makes getting at that top TC bolt a heck of a lot easier. Replace the transmission output seal while you have the TC out, it's cheap and may save you pulling the TC again to fix it later.

[Dingleberry]

I've always dropped the Xmember, it's 4 bolts and it makes getting at that top TC bolt a heck of a lot easier.

^^This.
Dropping the cross member is very easy; 4 nuts/bolts that attach it to the frame (2 each side) and 4 that attach it to the tc/tranny.
Remove those and out she pops.

MOST IMPORTANTLY: lowering the transmission by removing the cross member allows you to actually get to those top bolts that attach it to the transfer case. I have learned my lesson the hard way and wouldn't even think of removing the transfer case without first removing the cross member to lower the tranny.

[bitofaclue]

Dammit, I'd already done it by the time these last two postings appeared.  Yeah, that top nut is a buggah alright.  Next time I'll definitely drop the crossmember if means the tranny/tc lower a little to improve the access.  It wasn't so much the four bolts I was avoiding, it was having to support the tranny.  Now I know for next time.  Even so, pretty easy swap.

[cLAY]

I've never dropped the crossmember. But I've always  had stubby and gear wrenches on hand so its never been an issue.

Having had numerous XJs strip out there crossmember bolts I try not to mess with them.