TJSJEEP won't turnover

[dhlo]

I'm not sure if anyone knows anything about Jeeps in this forum, but I'll ask anyway...   

A couple of days ago, I went to drive to the store, using the 2001 TJ for the first time in about two weeks.  It wouldn't start, just clicking.  After several tries, there was no more clicking and the voltage was really low.  Figuring because it was idle for so long, I just needed a boost.  A buddy helped me out early yesterday evening and we got it going no problem.  Let it run for a bit and hit the road to meet my buddy at Regal Beagle to reward his help with cholesterol (delicious, delicious cholesterol).  After a couple of hours of beer and wings, the TJ started again and I got home.

So, today I hoped in at 245PM to pick my Son (his name is also TJ, no relation) up from school at 3PM and I got clicking again.  403-299-1111 was immediately called and I picked him up just in time and we got home.  Had my buddy help me out with a boost again, but this time no clicking and no turnover.  All of the lights and gauges seem to work.  I did the three quick key turns for diags and it didn't return a code, just the word dONE.  I also cleaned the battery posts last night because there was some corrosion.

Any idea what's borked?  I did have a check engine recently, but I tightened the gas cap and all was well - this would happen every once in a while because the seal is looser than Paris Hilton.  About a month ago, I got the CHECK GAUGES light, but after shutting down and starting up, that went away.

[JackstandJohnny]

battery!

[dhlo]

You think so?  I had a boost from the same running vehicle that tried today (failed) with the same cables and the TJ started up right away.

Maybe it's a combination of a boned battery and fried starter relay from low power the first time after two weeks?  No clicky stuff at all anymore even though the gauge during the boost showed 14V - it climbed from about 10V.

[AV.NINE]

You think so?  I had a boost from the same running vehicle that tried today (failed) with the same cables and the TJ started up right away.

Maybe it's a combination of a boned battery and fried starter relay from low power the first time after two weeks?  No clicky stuff at all anymore even though the gauge during the boost showed 14V - it climbed from about 10V.

Johnnys right, its your battery.

Go get your alternator tested as well, couldd be the reason your battery failed.

[dhlo]

Thanks Guys!  I tried a Lada forum and couldn't understand what the H377 they were saying...

I'm gonna try the following, in order of expense:  the relay, the 40A relay fuse (I haven't found it yet, but I assume that under the hood in the PDC), the battery and then the alternator test.

Hopefully something works because I'm in underground parking and tows don't dig the tight space. 

Q about the alternator:  How easy is it to install?  I've done it on my CJ (totally easy), but haven't done much hands-on work with the TJ. 

And, another Q:  Is it cool to spray down the engine compartment on the TJ with a power washer, of course covering any air intakes. 

[pooljunky]

the battery for sure. I hose down my compartment all the time.. and I usually change my alternator between 30 minutes to an hour.

[dhlo]

The alternator is up top on the belt on the left-hand side of the compartment, right?  I used to do all of the work on my CJ (except for the steering box detaching and I could only drive right - not cool in Palliser parkade, but fortunately, the spiral out lane goes right, so I made it down to the tow truck), but the TJ compartment is more tight so I haven't paid that much attention to it.

[AV.NINE]

The alternator is up top on the belt on the left-hand side of the compartment, right?  I used to do all of the work on my CJ (except for the steering box detaching and I could only drive right - not cool in Palliser parkade, but fortunately, the spiral out lane goes right, so I made it down to the tow truck), but the TJ compartment is more tight so I haven't paid that much attention to it.

Buy a batt and alternator, shoot me a message 403.991.5950. I have a large garage and many tools, shouldn't take more that 30 mins to change both.

Bring some beer.

[Bnine]

For christ sakes, do yourself a favor and get volt meter. Come back and we will help you diagnose some crap.



For the regulars - you are guys are the worst armchair mechanics in the world. DIAGNOSE DIAGNOSE DIAGNOSE

God knows, not one of you cheap bastards would ever just throw parts at a problem without knowing whats busted. But everytime someone asks a question here you start grenading parts suggestions before you have a clue whats wrong.

DIAGNOSE
RECOMMEND
REPLACE

Get your crap straight if your going to help people out.

End rant. Happy new year. Love you guys

[fug]

Glad to see you're around and unchanged Bill! 

I gotta agree with you.  One thing I've learned the hard way is that its better to figure out whats wrong vs. guessing and throwing parts at a problem. 

DHLO:  Get a voltmeter... cheap one will do.  Measure the voltage of the battery.  If it's above 12.5V or so then the battery is not your problem.  If your battery checks out and you aren't getting any starter action.. it's time to start looking at your starter (or the wiring to it).  If thats the case... come back then and we can give you some pointers at that point.

[dubbleJs]

 About a month ago, I got the CHECK GAUGES light, but after shutting down and starting up, that went away.

and did you check the gauges when it said this? I'm guessing it was your voltmeter showing somewhere around 9volts....

[dhlo]

I have a voltmeter and will give it a go tonight.  Picked up a battery, starter relay (RY612) and a 40 volt fuse.

If replacing the battery gets it running, can I also use the voltmeter on the alternator?  If so, what am I looking for?

Another thing:  When I cleaned the posts, I was able to pop off the negative (always negative first) no problem, but positive wouldn't budge.  Any suggestions on how to get it off without busting something or turning myself into Two Face?

[fug]

One of the quickest way to test your alternator is to measure voltage at the battery terminals with the car off then with it running

With it off it should be around 12.5 volts
With it running it should be up around 14ish volts

It's not an exact thing... and its still possible that you could have a bad alternator that gets bad under load... or pumps out too high a voltage at higher RPMs and fries your battery.

If you google there's tons of info on testing an alternator with a voltmeter (even some videos).

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[dhlo]

Thanks for all the advice Guys!  I'll give it a go and let you know...

[JackstandJohnny]

perhaps i should have written more.
i meant to say to pull the battery and get it tested first at a place like Auto Value or Canadian tire. they'll usually test them for you free of charge.  (charge, get it? haha)
i'd test before installing the new one just in case.

also, if you want i have like 4 alternators kicking around. all came from ZJs. so if they work for TJ you can have one to see if that is your issue.