Hypothetical build of an Expedition style ZJ

[cLAY]

Been out of it for awhile now and my stock 5.9er is looking pretty sad. I still have the Claytons lift and bumpers from my old ZJ, so the wheels have started turning.

So lets do a hypothetical build of an expedition style ZJ, I've done the BIG Jeep thing, now I want something that drives better than stock but can still play hard.

I'm torn on 31s or 33s. 31s would put a lot less stress on everything an allow for less lift keeping the steering more stockish.  However if I reuse my Claytons Long arm kit I need to run atleast 4.5" of lift and thats pretty close to allowing 33s.

For axles I think the aluminum D44a has to go altogether, just not enough aftermarket options.  I'm considering Rubicon axles as that would give me 4.10s and D44s and lockers all in one package for fairly cheap. I want selectable lockers front and rear and a $1000 each fora a selectable locker plus re-gearing, Rubicon axles start to look like a deal.

So then that brings up another question, what gears? Again I stay with 31s, 4.10s will be great but with 33s not so much.  The 5.9 will spin 33s whatever the gearing is but I have thoughts of going back to moab and those downhill descents with an automatic require all the gearing you can get.

Uhg, I've forgotten how expensive this all is, I've probably already racked up $3-$4K and haven't even looked at steering, brakes,tires.......

[w squared]

4.10's with 32's was pretty great on my JK Clay. With 33's you'd lose a bit, but not much. Then again, that was with a 4:1 transfer case.

If you do Rubi axles, are you looking at a JK donor? If so, beware the front D44...it has skinny tubes that aren't anywhere near as strong as a real 1/2 ton D44, Probably not a big issue with 33's and 4.10's, but worth being aware of.

I hear you on wanting to be able to drive the rig on the road. There's a voice in my head that tells how much better my breakover angle would be on 37's and how a hydro assist setup really wouldn't cost me that much more. Luckily for me, there's an equally loud voice that tells me I'm an idiot for not downsizing to 33's since I'm not wheeling as hard here in Texas.

[cLAY]

I had planned on just waiting another couple of years and then building a JK but I've got a decent ZJ and all these parts just sitting here.......

At the end my old just was just sitting idle so whatever I  build  extra has to be an enjoyable street machine as well.

[hps4evr]

I would start with a different transfer case, 231 or 242. Plenty of kits to swap a 8.8 rear end on the cheap, even easier if you use the clayton long arms you have. Cut out flares for a little extra room. Find a high pinion 30 for the front. 4.10 Gears came in both these axle configurations. And the 5.9 has plenty of power to turn the 33's.  Albeit descents may still need your attention. Although not ideal for off road use using limited slip diffs front and rear would work well over all on an expedition type zj. A good agressive all terrain would work too, and a good winch to get you out. Very simple and affordable setup using readily available parts.

[cLAY]

Not too worried about t-case right now. It's plenty strong enough and the VC is good and it locks fully in 4low.  I'm thinking down the road some sort of 4:1 low range tcase. But that's pretty far down on the list.

Since I'm going with selectable lockers front and rear I don't see how building an 8.8 would be cheaper than buying a Rubi D44......

HP30s are over rated in my opinion. I've never seen anyone break a LP D30 ring and pinion and I kmow from my last build that building a HP diff in ZJ poses some extra clearance problems with the oil pan.  4.10s are pretty rare these days. Not many 4 cylinders kicking around anymore.  If I found one I'd probably grab it if the price was right.

Not sure about tires. Thinking something along the lines of GY Duratrac. Have a set on my truck. Good all round tire that gets good grip in snow. Not too loud and seems to be wearing ok. Probably not the greatest in mud. Awful tire for towing though. Not going to be towing with the ZJ so that's not an issue.

[cLAY]

Anybody seen any good looking flares recently for a decent price? I liked the Icelandic flares but haven't seen them in a long time.   The bushwackers are ok but I think they are getting rare and are going for $800USD last time I looked.

[newfiewheeler]

let me know what parts you want to order clay, i have a buddy that can get all the parts any performance shop in town can. usually at a fraction of the cost.

[hps4evr]

Not too worried about t-case right now. It's plenty strong enough and the VC is good and it locks fully in 4low.  I'm thinking down the road some sort of 4:1 low range tcase. But that's pretty far down on the list.

Since I'm going with selectable lockers front and rear I don't see how building an 8.8 would be cheaper than buying a Rubi D44......

HP30s are over rated in my opinion. I've never seen anyone break a LP D30 ring and pinion and I kmow from my last build that building a HP diff in ZJ poses some extra clearance problems with the oil pan.  4.10s are pretty rare these days. Not many 4 cylinders kicking around anymore.  If I found one I'd probably grab it if the price was right.

Not sure about tires. Thinking something along the lines of GY Duratrac. Have a set on my truck. Good all round tire that gets good grip in snow. Not too loud and seems to be wearing ok. Probably not the greatest in mud. Awful tire for towing though. Not going to be towing with the ZJ so that's not an issue.

If selectable lockers are a must then yeah, you can't beat the rubi axles. Check out the toyo open country at 2 extreme, great over all performance and 3 ply sidewall protection.
If you need inspiration check out the Overland Expedition videos on YouTube. Though they drive toyotas it's a great show.

[hps4evr]

Anybody seen any good looking flares recently for a decent price? I liked the Icelandic flares but haven't seen them in a long time.   The bushwackers are ok but I think they are getting rare and are going for $800USD last time I looked.

Notch customs took over the flares from Iceland offroad.

[JackstandJohnny]

Long arms at 4.5" ain't bad. It will ride nice. Currie steering would be on my short list of things but the stock one would work fine.

4.10 axles 33s And giver. Great combo.

231 tcase eventually as it sits up higher than the 242.

Add a winch bumper of sorts and go.

[w squared]

Duratracs will do well on the road, and handle snow great - but you already know that from your truck.

What I found with Duratracs on my JK was that they lacked the side-to-side grip of an actual MT as soon as you got involved in some mud. You kinda have to pick your line, and head in that direction hoping that inertia and some crude steering inputs will get you there, because your rear wheels aren't likely to stay where you want them to be.

[cLAY]

How was the lateral grip on snow/ice offroad?  I witnessed a couple of F/R locked Toys with Boggers have a REALLY  hard time on the sidehills winter wheeling.

[JackstandJohnny]

duratracs are alright in the winter stuff with those situations.   

you might as well run slicks if theres mud involved though.

[w squared]

I ran mine studded. They worked fine at 9 psi, and had great lateral grip.

The sidewalls definitely aren't up to the same level of toughness as many MT radials, and I did have one small issue with tread chunking - but overall I wouldn't hesitate to buy a set of them again.

[cLAY]

Crap. I'm getting sucked back in. Friggin Kijiji!  Just picked up a TJ D30 with 4.10s and an Eaton E-locker for $500.  Guess we're not so hypothetical anymore....