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Author Topic: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...  (Read 239 times)

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Offline GoChris

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Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« on: October 04, 2020, 04:04:33 PM »
So, naturally I took the thing apart. After removing the bolts and starting to pry it apart, it started leaking water, that's not normal.


Oh, well that is quite a bit of mud where there shouldn't be mud.


Yuck, will need to clean all this out.


Yup, those are rusty.


Time for some wire wheel action, looks better now.


Then I greased it all up and put it back together, the gasket was good so I reused it. Forgot to take pics, but nothing exciting.

I confirmed the motor worked before I put it all back on the Jeep, that was a relief, as the replacements are not worth the cost, pretty sure they are over $1k.

Works now and the sway bar light stopped flashing, hurray! Time for more wheeling!

Offline hps4evr

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Re: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2020, 05:16:17 PM »
Usually when these things get real bad most people delete them and use a manual version. Most tuners can shut the system off too so no flashing light.
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Offline MattMan

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Re: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2020, 08:37:16 AM »
So if the seals and gaskets are good then how’d all the water mud get in there?
MattMan

'12 JK Sport, 5spd ATS auto, P285/70r17 Duratracs on 17x9 Trailmaster steelies, 3" coil-lifted, "DV8" bumpers, Smitty rock rails, K&N w/Magna-flow exh, TrailDash 2’ner, CB, no lockers, Warn VR10, carbon fibre cowl hood, MOAB rating: “billygoat”

Offline GoChris

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Re: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2020, 11:51:17 AM »
Usually when these things get real bad most people delete them and use a manual version. Most tuners can shut the system off too so no flashing light.

Ya, I didn't want to do that just yet, the cheapest alternative is cheapish, <$150, but puts the control is a somewhat awkward position to change. Other options are quite a bit more, like anti-rock for example. If the motor was toast then I would have evaluated options, but since it still works I'll keep using it.

So if the seals and gaskets are good then how’d all the water mud get in there?

Good question, I'm not sure. I did make it was tightened very well this time when I put it back together and greased it up a bunch which should hopefully help the seal? I might check it again after the next outing to see. There is no separate gasket on the motor side, just a rubber seal around it, also lightly greased that, probably should have done more.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2020, 11:53:01 AM by GoChris »

Offline Vinman

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Re: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2020, 01:04:06 PM »
So if the seals and gaskets are good then how’d all the water mud get in there?

Well duh, the seals and gaskets are to keep the mud and water IN, not out🤪
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Offline MattMan

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Re: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2020, 06:32:34 PM »
Well duh, the seals and gaskets are to keep the mud and water IN, not out🤪
Well… I stand corrected. They seem to be working very well then!  ;)
MattMan

'12 JK Sport, 5spd ATS auto, P285/70r17 Duratracs on 17x9 Trailmaster steelies, 3" coil-lifted, "DV8" bumpers, Smitty rock rails, K&N w/Magna-flow exh, TrailDash 2’ner, CB, no lockers, Warn VR10, carbon fibre cowl hood, MOAB rating: “billygoat”

Offline Sixty4X4

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Re: Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect stopped working...
« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2020, 09:23:16 AM »
I would like to drill a grease nipple hole in mine and an opposing threaded plugged breather hole. That exploded view lets me know where to drill. Then it can be re-greased easy once a year. Used to do the same with factory plugs for my aero plane constant speed propeller.
2008 JKU Ruby, Jeep steel bumper, 9500 winch, 2016 5.3 Chev LT & 8L90 8 spd auto, 285 Maxxis Bighorns, MC 2.5" and LC Arms.