Broken Motor Mount

[CanaMatt]

I had a friend do my motor mounts. He did not use Grade 8 bolts. Now I got 2 bolts busted off drivers side, one is still good. So when driving I  baby it. I got 3 brand new engine mount bolts from the dealer. These are the 3 bolts that go from the motor mount into the block on each side. I have to be careful trying to get these out, because one wrong move and I can go to far. Otherwise I would just drill them out, hammer them out. This has to be a common problem, with broken bolts in general need removing.

Does anybody have an ideas as what to do? I could just take it to the mechanic, and get a large bill in return for my troubles. I am trying my best to fix things myself. Do I try to drill it out hoping to not mess with the threads and not go to far into block, or do I tap and die a larger bolt. Or just get a welder to fab up new motor mounts on block?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[fug]

You could always try using an EZ out.   It's a reverse threaded "bit" you can pick up at Can Tire.   Basically you drill a hole into the center of the broken bolt and thread the EZ out in ... and as you "tighten" the EZ out in it turns the broken bolt out (since tightening the EZ out is the same direction as loosening the bolt... that reverse threaded thing).  Just be careful to not break the EZ out off in the hole... been there done that and its brutal to drill out an EZ out  :wink:

If you want any help or other confusing advice... be glad to help with either  

[CanaMatt]

Can you tell me what a good EZ out looks like, for bolts. Because I went out to House of Tools up in the North, bought 3 different sizes of that EZ out and it didn't really work. It was the square one that tappered off, but had a sharp side. I saw a spiral one that the rental auto repair shop had, but was dull. I googled around the net for abit, saw many different types and styles. The bolts my bud put in are not even grade 8, thats why they broke, so they are not that really really hard metal grade 8's are made of. I will go to House of Tools on McLeod and talk to them, and shop Can Tire; about the reverse cut EZ out for bolts.

[fug]

Don't know if these are the best out there but they are what I use:

http://tinyurl.com/cmea2

You can break them off if you aren't careful (don't ask how I know!) but they have worked for me.  You drill a hole into the center of the broken bolt so that you can start threading the EZ out in.  Then due to the reverse twist on it.. as you turn it .. it should start biting into the bolt and twist it out.

Course it can be helpful to spray the hell out of the bolt with WD-40 or the like first.  Every little bit helps.

[CanaMatt]

Those look like the proper ones for EZ out. CT didn't have it on thier shelves, but House o tools had 2 sizes on shelf. How do I know what size of EZ out to use? Do you place the EZ out in a drill?

[Elsifer]

Once you get the broken bolt out, maybe pre-lubing the new bolts with some anti-seize compound might help in the future.

I'm thinking of doing that to any and all bolts that I pull from my Jeep.


Cheers
Chris

[redbull]

Once you get the broken bolt out, maybe pre-lubing the new bolts with some anti-seize compound might help in the future.

I'm thinking of doing that to any and all bolts that I pull from my Jeep.

I have done that with every bolt or screw I've ever pulled.  :wink:

[Dave]

You shouldn't lube any fastener you want to stay in, like motor mount bolts. Use threadlocker.

[CanaMatt]

Princess auto has Grade 8 bolts and alot of EZ out's. So much for my 4 bolts that cost me $30 from dealer, when they were $0.10/bolt at Princess Auto.

I just bought me some tow points for rear, I wasn't really sure what to get. I went by memory as to what I saw at the Show and Shine. The ones I got are a 2 seperate peice, flat metal peice (1 peice) wrapped around a O-collar (2nd peice). Should I just bolt em onto rear bumper close to frame rail, or bolt straight to frame rail. I got grade 8's bolts for that. Also got a 30' strap, tree saver, and some shackles 5/8's I think.

I need to find attachments to my jack-all, so I can manually jack myself out. Like I need a metal peice that attaches (bolts) to the jack bar with the holes in it. Dual rendundancy incase used winch goes while playing on the trails.

What are some other safery gear/recovery gear one should always have onboard?

[cLAY]

If you have access to a welder you can often place a nut over the broken bolt and then fill the center of the nut with weld so it welds the nut to the broken stud. Often after it cools you can turn it out by hand. Placing a fiber washer between the nut and block will help prevent the nut from sticking to the block.

I've done this many times at work and at home with good results.

[TJ54]

cLAY, i can't believe I have never thought of  that. It sounds like a great way to remove a bolt. I will try that next time,

and we both know there will be a next time

Ian

[cLAY]

Yep its pretty slick when it works. I have even made it work when the bolt has broken off the surface, granted it was a big bolt so it was easier to weld inside of.

[CanaMatt]

Hey, these bolts are broken flush off motor block, if not slightly curved inward to the inside of block. I will look into a welder.

[CanaMatt]

Busted another one

The whole right side has bolts busted off, 3 of them. The left side is all good.

If anyone can help me, I will be glad to pay you. I need this to be fixed real soon. I can't drive it, so I will get a tow truck. Give me a shout, either by way of email [email protected] or telephone 999-9401 (cell)

I don't drink, but I will be glad to throw in some beer or something to sweeten the deal.