Author Topic: Drive Shaft questions (Read 3589 times)

fug · « **on:** February 05, 2007, 10:47:10 PM »

I've been trying to install a Rubicon transfer case with a Tom Woods CV drive shaft in my TJ and I've run into a couple of things that have stopped me right now (you can read my tale of woe over in the Jeep projects section here)

In a nutshell it looks like my rear drive shaft may be too short and I need to work out a way to get my front drive shaft hooked up so I'm wondering:

- What do I do about the rear drive shaft? The dang thing cost me a fortune but I got it months ago so I'm thinking returning it might not be an option. Can it be lengthened? or better to sell it to someone who can use it and have DSI build me one?

- Can DSI or someone place replace the yoke on my front drive shaft to accept 1330 ujoints or am I beter off changing the yoke on the transfer case (and how hard is that to do).

BlackYJ · « **Reply #1 on:** February 06, 2007, 07:26:01 AM »

To get a driveshaft lengthed by DSI is about $150. I would first off talk to the original supplier and see what they will do for you. You could get a combo joint for the front shaft (1310-1330) you at least you could be able to drive it.

Now I will go read you woes on the project forum

fug · « **Reply #2 on:** February 06, 2007, 07:59:14 AM »

Yeah unfortunately the problem with the front shaft is the 1310/1330 joint won't fit. The transfer case end is a yoke rather than a strap arrangement and only a 1310 joint fits into it.

The problem with returning my rear drive shaft is I bought it off a guy who I don't think is really "in business" anymore... and I'm not sure he ever even had a store front. Also have the time issue... I want the Jeep back on the road asap. Patience is not a virtue I posess.

BlackYJ · « **Reply #3 on:** February 06, 2007, 08:17:37 AM »

I had to use a 1310-1330 on the rear of my YJ, as I was lucky enough to have one of the few YJs with a 1330 yoke on the D35, and there was no problem putting it together. Also same thing when I switched to the 8.8 and I had to use the flange adaptor. So if the 1330 does not fit in the yoke, then I would have to say, you have the wrong yoke. I am not up on the rubi t-case, but those are my thoughts from what you have stated

Bnine · « **Reply #4 on:** February 06, 2007, 09:28:48 AM »

Front has two option.

1. have DSI cut and lengthen the front shaft and install a 1330 CV on it while they are there.

2. Just buy a rubicon front shaft and a combo joint (s44/1310) for the front pinion.

If you can get a good deal, the dealer one would be a bit cheaper, but the DSI one will be a little better quality with a greasable CV and no combo joint at the front.

Few options for the rear

Does the rear pull apart completely, or is it enough to get you to dsi? Once there, they can lengthen for you or build you another one.

Also, we have a TW like yours that might be a bit longer and is for sale. That might work with a combo joint.

Option 3, you buy a rubicon front yoke, install it into your case, then order a DSI shaft giving them exact specs you need (1330cv at case, 1310 joint on pinion), and your center to center of ujoint total length.

Good luck, let me know if I can help somehow, or just give me a call if you have questions.

ramtuff · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2007, 09:36:52 AM »

I've installed a bunch of cv shafts on rubicons. I've found that a longer shaft is better. In order to get the longest shaft without changing or adding any parts I use the Rubicon Express yoke kitpt#RE1809. this yoke kit will bolt right onto your 241 rubicon case and you won't even have to change the seal. some other places use yokes where you have to install a custom seal in your t.case. Then I use a 1310 cv shaft approx. 19" long(depending on your lift) with a 1330/1310 u-joint for a rubicon or in your case a straight 1310 shaft.

people have had trouble with vibration after the install of a custom yoke on the t case. it usually has to do with damage to the tone wheel inside the extension housing. when using the RE1809 I've never had vibration issues or damaged tone wheels.

241's also have a problem with the rear output seal leaking. If you don't over fill the t.case it will not leak. Proper fill level is 1/2" bellow the fill plug.

Bnine · « **Reply #6 on:** February 06, 2007, 09:44:15 AM »

The seal works using a stock front yoke as well. Its bolt in.

I've slipped a tone ring before. Key to avoiding that is not allowing the output shaft to turn when removing or installing any yokes or shafts.

I didnt know the RE was 1310. That would be a nice option for this application, keeping everything the same throughout the shaft. Little more length, and higher angle CV. 1330 cant handle as much angle as a 1310 CV.

fug · « **Reply #7 on:** February 06, 2007, 10:53:51 AM »

Thanks for the input guys.

I talked to DSI this morning and I was leaning towards:

Rear:
DSI to lengthen the TW shaft I have. I talked to them about pulling the damper and installing a yoke with a driveshaft they build to my specs.. but the $550 price tag scared me off a bit. I realize it would probably work the best but I'm into this TW shaft for $575 already.

Front
DSI to change the current shaft to accept a 1330 joint on the TC end. and I'll just stay with 1310 on the axle end. Its cheaper and quicker than trying to find a Rubi front shaft and having it lengthened.

What are the measurements on your TW shaft Bill? Is it the type that mounts to the adapter flange or is it a yoke mount?

BlackYJ · « **Reply #8 on:** February 06, 2007, 11:06:58 AM »

Shouldn't you be able just to switch the flange adaptor and yoke if necessary?

Bnine · « **Reply #9 on:** February 06, 2007, 11:13:27 AM »

The TW we have is identical to yours. Flange style. But should be a bit longer. Its off a rubi with a tuck and almost 6 inches of lift.

I'll try to get measurements for you.

fug · « **Reply #10 on:** February 06, 2007, 11:19:20 AM »

Looking at the photos on the Tom Woods page it looks like I could switch the shaft to use either the adapter or the yoke.

I was reading some stuff here that has me a little freaked about removing my damper because I am running a 5 speed.

"It is not generally suggested that the yoke type conversion be done on vehicles with the manual transmission" :?

ramtuff · « **Reply #11 on:** February 06, 2007, 12:35:54 PM »

Quote from: "fug"

Looking at the photos on the Tom Woods page it looks like I could switch the shaft to use either the adapter or the yoke.

I was reading some stuff here that has me a little freaked about removing my damper because I am running a 5 speed.

"It is not generally suggested that the yoke type conversion be done on vehicles with the manual transmission" :?

all the ones I've done have been manual trans.

BlackYJ · « **Reply #12 on:** February 06, 2007, 01:17:10 PM »

If the driveshaft is properly balanced, you will not need that dampener, manual or auto. The dampener from what I know and have heard is there to reduce vibration. Running without it will be like all the other Jeeps out there.

So if that dampener is there, then I am guessing that a stock rubi driveshaft is not balanced from the factory then?

fug · « **Reply #13 on:** February 07, 2007, 12:56:21 PM »

I think the stock rubi driveshaft is balanced... the stock shaft I got with the tcase has alittle plate on it that looks like a balncer weight.

Just got back from DSI. They are going to lengthen my rear drive shaft by installing a new 1/2" longer yoke end on it. Since they don't have to cut and weld anything and they are going to take the yoke end currently on the driveshaft in trade. It looks like I'm only going to pay for some labour and balancing.

They measured out my front drive shaft and said it looks like it should fit according to my measurements. This really surprised me because from everything I heard my front shaft should have been to short once I put the 241 case in. So I'm going to stick with my current drive shaft... and because I didn't need to shorten it ... I decided to change out the front yoke on the tcase to one that accepts the 1310 ujoint. Anyone got an extra front yoke from a 231 laying around?

Man I hope this is all worth it when I'm done. I can't go back to the 231 case anyhow because I sold it last night :lol:

Bnine · « **Reply #14 on:** February 07, 2007, 01:00:36 PM »

You want to put a 1310 yoke on the front of the rubi 241 case?

Stock 231 yoke wont work. Rubi's have a 32 spline front output shaft.

Only 32 spline 1310 yokes I know of are the aftermarkets like Ramtuff mentioned. They also come on SYE's which convert 231 outputs to 32 spline as well.