Author Topic: Diff question (aka attack of the crud) (Read 3155 times)

fug · « **on:** February 19, 2007, 05:03:55 PM »

I started pulling apart my "new" axles today in order to get them painted up and get the new brakes & diff covers on.

I pulled the cover off the front diff and was greeted with this:

It's kind of rusty looking crud all over inside the axle.

I've never actually had a diff apart so it freaked me out a little. Is it something I should worry about? Can I just clean it out with brake cleaner or something?

Vinman · « **Reply #1 on:** February 19, 2007, 05:23:02 PM »

It seems a shame somebody would go through the expense of an ARB locker and then neglect it like that.

I would give it a THOROUGH cleaning and inspection, install a magnetic fill plug and change the fluid after a few hundred kms.

I think it will take more than brake cleaner to clean it out good, I would thoroughly flush it with engine oil, clean as much rust as possible with a soft scotch-brite pad, flush some more, maybe 2 or 3 times.

It looks like the diff has lock out hubs or sat for quite awhile.

Vince

stroker sahara · « **Reply #2 on:** February 19, 2007, 09:19:26 PM »

I know if you were to soak the parts in diesel fuel it should eat the rust, but not sure what (if any) it may hurt in the carrier.

fug · « **Reply #3 on:** February 20, 2007, 08:01:00 AM »

So over on Jeep Forum someone has suggested I'm going to need to rebuild the axles and put in new bearings. Anyone ever cleaned up a diff that looked like this and had it be OK? Or should I just bite the bullet and spend the $$$ for new parts and learn to rebuild diffs etc?

BlackYJ · « **Reply #4 on:** February 20, 2007, 08:06:26 AM »

When I pulled my cover last weekend, 1/3 of the cover was like that, Ooops. I would clean as much as possible with brake cleaner and then refill it. Run it for a little while and let the oil work its way around to clean then rest, then change it again.

Just make sure that the ARB bearing on the righthand side is still working properly, as that is what controls the locker

Wif · « **Reply #5 on:** February 20, 2007, 10:14:17 AM »

Quote from: "fug"

So over on Jeep Forum someone has suggested I'm going to need to rebuild the axles and put in new bearings. Anyone ever cleaned up a diff that looked like this and had it be OK? Or should I just bite the bullet and spend the $$$ for new parts and learn to rebuild diffs etc?

I guess the casting iron is more prone to rusting .. maybe the bearings are OK .. it would be easy enough to inspect.

Bnine · « **Reply #6 on:** February 20, 2007, 10:53:53 AM »

Pull the carrier and check the bearings. If they are ok, your pinion bearings should be fine as well.

If there is any scoring, piting, rust, or excessive slop in the cone or cup of the bearings, then yeah, you should re do them.

fug · « **Reply #7 on:** February 20, 2007, 12:50:25 PM »

When I pull the carrier is there anything I need to be careful to note other than the orientation of the bearing caps and how the shims are installed?

I've heard getting the carrier out can be a b*tch too...Any tricks other than a big a**ed pry bar to get it out?

*edited cause I have a potty mouth :oops: *

Wif · « **Reply #8 on:** February 20, 2007, 01:04:26 PM »

Quote from: "fug"

.. I've heard getting the carrier out can be a bitch too...Any tricks other than a big assed pry bar to get it out?

Put it in gear and drop the clutch .. that'll shake it out .. :lol:

superles · « **Reply #9 on:** February 20, 2007, 01:54:21 PM »

I know this sound wierd however their is no better cleaner than Type F tranny fluid. Ever thought about refilling the case with a mixture of tranny fluid and diesel fluid. If it is not your daily driver fill it and drive it around the block a couple of times a day for a few days. Do not load it hard. This may loosen up the crud to allow easier cleaning. Tranny fluid has a lot of detergents in it as my father used it to flush anything and everything on the farm.

BlackYJ · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2007, 02:11:23 PM »

You have to be careful of that bearing with the air line going in. The rest I am sure Bill will let you know

mudslinginjoel · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2007, 09:01:59 AM »

If you start removing the carrier,you want to make sure if theres any shims,to put them back in the same sequence,and that could be a pain in the....,but before you do anything,my buddy filled his diff with WD-40, left it for a week,then drained it,it think he had to replace the bearings,then was good to go,axle shaft bearings arn't to expensive,to save a locker, but if you do this,make sure to blow out the WD-40,and let it dry out before adding gear oil.Brake clean also works great,but you can't get it in every where,and it's really bad to inhale.[/b]

cablesmurf · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2007, 09:42:08 AM »

Replied to your post in "Jeep projects".

fug · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2007, 10:00:34 AM »

Appreciate the feedback/info Dan. As I said over in my build thread I'm thinking my best bet is to go through things really well and hopefully I can get things working well.

It's pretty discouraging to have so much money into these already and be faced with the prospect of spending even more to make them work. I guess thats the way it goes sometimes tho.

cablesmurf · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2007, 02:24:44 PM »

Sorry, I didn't mean to give you the bad news, but I just don't like to see people get hosed. A seller should be honest and I don't think he was with you.

This is my opinion, but others will agree. Talk to Milan...he knows the history of theose diffs too.

Modern motors tried to fix them, as well as National. Neither seemed to have any luck. Talk to Rich at National...he may be able to give you some insight as he was the last one I know of to work on them.

Smurf

Author Topic: Diff question (aka attack of the crud) (Read 3155 times)

Wif

Wif

mudslinginjoel