Is your oil zinc-y enough?

[Immortal]

ummmmmmmmm... definately much less appealing.

[Vinman]

i am sure there are a few...err...many that i have fumed off over the years as a member of CJA, but i have tried really hard to correct my postings over the years and now just a few don't like me.

Cheers.

 

[Corey Kruchkowski]

Some very good points in this thread. The truth is, the 4.0L either NEEDS additive or NEEDS specialty oil NOW. Not optional.

I use this these days, buy it bulk and save $$$. It's the best option right now for flat tappet engines:

http://www.cam-shield.com/

or just run this at $10/litre:

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/hotrod/index.html

or this at $12.50 litre:

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/amsoil_premium_protection_10W40_high_zinc.htm

the 4.0L can no longer be run on "off-the-shelf" engine oil of any flavour.

[jpthing]

Some very good points in this thread. The truth is, the 4.0L either NEEDS additive or NEEDS specialty oil NOW. Not optional.

I use this these days, buy it bulk and save $$$. It's the best option right now for flat tappet engines:

http://www.cam-shield.com/

or just run this at $10/litre:

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/hotrod/index.html

or this at $12.50 litre:

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/amsoil_premium_protection_10W40_high_zinc.htm

the 4.0L can no longer be run on "off-the-shelf" engine oil of any flavour.

So you think even ACEA type oils are not good enough?

[Rubicon Josh]

So here is an unintelligent question...

After 160,000 kms of using off the shef (mostly Quakerstate Semi-synthetic) is there any point in changing oils this late in the game? I obviously want what is best for my jeep, but I once heard that one of the best things you can do for your engine is to regularly change oil using the same brand oil every time, that switching brands and weights causes it's own damage.

[jpthing]

So here is an unintelligent question...

After 160,000 kms of using off the shef (mostly Quakerstate Semi-synthetic) is there any point in changing oils this late in the game? I obviously want what is best for my jeep, but I once heard that one of the best things you can do for your engine is to regularly change oil using the same brand oil every time, that switching brands and weights causes it's own damage.

You could continue to use the same oil but with a zinc additive...this would hopefully be the best of both worlds?

[Immortal]

Red meat is a good source of Zinc... it's true!! I heard it on the radio today.

[jpthing]

Red meat is a good source of Zinc... it's true!! I heard it on the radio today.

So you stick your meat in your engine is what you're saying then?

[Bushluver]

I am thinking if zinc was a major component in the oil and it was removed due to environmental issues or the sheer cost of it then a replacement would have been put in. These companies have rooms of engineers and testing facility to make sure the oil will stand up. I really think for the abuse we are giving our engines on the street and trail a failure will not be the result of the oil its self. maintain your engine and remember they do where out. 300 000 + km on a engine and then having to rebuild it is normal. 

With oil you get what you pay for, and I am not a big fan of synthetic in a engine. one for the cost I can change my oil 2.5 times and have fresh oil in it for the cost of one synthetic change. Go with a blend and then up the changes. I use to run Quakersate and now am running Modal 1, I am liking the results. in how the rig is running and performing. You have to try different things and find what you like. Some can't tell the differences some can. I just don't think running Wal-Mart's no name is a good thing. I don't care if the high school kid with a A in auto shop says it is the same as what ever other brand, if it is half the price there is a resin. and the sticker on the front is not the resin.

The snake oils I am referring to is all the additives. everyone has one nowadays, I like Lukas in my diff's but for the engine just oil. I don't see an advantage in running it in an engine. When I was pitting for a racing team back home we won all kind of different oils but never used them. we just used Quakersate performance blend. after every race we changed the oil and during the week the pan came off the bottom end was inspected. and we never cooked an engine du to lubrication issues. 

I would like to know the mileage on the engines that your buddy is rebuilding and what condition they are in.

By the way you where saying an anther tread that you where in not so common, no schooling trade. What trade would that be?

Sort of on topic...
re: the Lucas additives

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

I used it a few years back until I saw this little demo that one of the members from Bob Is The Oil Guy did.
It seems that the Lucas additive only stands to airate the oil, and if his logic holds and aerated oil is bad I wouldn't be caught dead using it.

[mhernden]

I totally rip'd this off from another forum...  but i figured more information is probably better... so here it is... delete it if you dont want it here.

This guy wrote to Royal Purple regarding exactly this topic. 

Here is their reply posted only 2 weeks ago.   



Good Morning Mr. Guignard,

What you have read and/or heard about the zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP, the industry standard anti-wear additive) content of motor oils is not completely accurate. The API SM/ILSAC GF-4 motor oil ratings that became effective in ~2004 required a reduction in the maximum allowable amount of phosphorus in an engine oil. This is a de facto restriction on ZDDP anti-wear additive. There is no elimination of this additive, but a reduction of 20% – 35% in 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 multi-viscosity motor oils. This restriction was introduced under the premise that phosphorus content in motor oil directly affected the useful life of catalytic converters, and OEM’s are now required to warranty their vehicle’s emission system separately from the power train. Since great majority of automobiles produced in the past decade are equipped with roller cam followers (tappets), the OEM’s were not that concerned with flat tappet wear. API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils are marginal for stock flat tappet cams, at best. If an engine uses a ‘larger’, more aggressive flat tappet camshaft and stiffer valve springs, premature cam and lifter wear is likely.

We at Royal Purple have chosen to hold most of our API rated oils back to API SL/ILSAC GF-3 precisely because of the potential for increased engine wear. Furthermore, in a properly functioning engine, oil consumption is minimal and highly unlikely to prematurely degrade the catalytic converter. For stock build valve trains in the Jeep 4-cylinder and I-6 engines, our 10W-30 (API SL) would work very well. If the camshaft and lifters have been replaced with a more aggressive profile and stiffer valve springs, our 10W-40 would be an outstanding choice (more robust formulation with higher ZDDP content).

One thing to note, though, is that the biggest advantage of using Royal Purple oils is our Synerlec additive. Synerlec creates a high lubricant film strength and thickness, regardless of viscosity. This further reduces the chances of metal-to-metal contact in the engine (reducing wear), increases piston ring seal (more efficient operation), and greatly reduces friction (lowering operating temperatures). All of this contributes to a more allow your engine to run cooler and more efficiently, with less wear, and increases the life of your engine. Another benefit is the increased resistance to oxidation, thereby increasing the life of the oil, and therefore allowing longer oil change intervals.


- Royal Purple SAE 10W-30 (part #01130, quart bottle)
- Royal Purple SAE 10W-40 (part #01140, quart bottle)

Thank you for inquiring about Royal Purple. If you have any further questions, please let us know.


Best Regards,

Christopher Barker
Tech Services
Royal Purple, Inc.
1 Royal Purple Ln.
Porter, TX 77365

[dac]

- Royal Purple SAE 10W-30 (part #01130, quart bottle)
- Royal Purple SAE 10W-40 (part #01140, quart bottle)

Thank you for inquiring about Royal Purple. If you have any further questions, please let us know.


Best Regards,

Christopher Barker
Tech Services
Royal Purple, Inc.
1 Royal Purple Ln.
Porter, TX 77365

I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a smartie if they would have called it Royal Blue.

[Immortal]

Does it come in Blue?

[dac]

Does it come in Blue?

Maybe you can dye it blue?

[jpthing]

I've never tried it...is it actually purple then?

[dac]

I've never tried it...is it actually purple then?

apparently it is