The Dana 35

[jgpoirier]

I have heard each way from a few people on whether the dana 35 will decently survive when under the load of a 33 or a 35(id like to run).
For either tire size I am planning on re-gearing.
I come from the Durango world with the 9.25 and am still learning about the 35.
Any hints, tips, suggestions?
Much appreciated.

Thanks, Guy

[FiEND]

durango 8.25

how much work do you do yourself?   if you keep the spare parts and tools in the jeep and are comfortable changing shafts on the trail within an hour, then the D35 can be OK on 33 inch tires, especially AT's that won't over grip.  if you can, drive nicely and save every penny and upgrade the rear when available.

[BlackYJ]

I have heard each way from a few people on whether the dana 35 will decently survive when under the load of a 33 or a 35(id like to run).
For either tire size I am planning on re-gearing.
I come from the Durango world with the 9.25 and am still learning about the 35.
Any hints, tips, suggestions?
Much appreciated.

Thanks, Guy

It all depends on how much skinny pedal you like ot use.  I have seen people bust D35 axles with 31s and I have seen people run 35s with no problems.  If you like to use the skinny pedal, it will not last.  I ran 33 swampers and an ARB on my stock D35 for a season with a lot of wheeling with no problems but I was definitely careful.

[vantagetes]

Here's the thing. Those D35s like to flex and as a result you break crap. Now you can brace them, rebuild as a "super35" etc but is it worth it? You're never really going to get the same performance as a D44 or a Ford 8.8, and by the time you change gears and build everything stronger you're going to be in for more than you can get either the 8.8 or D44, especially if you break something in the meantime.

At the same time D35s are cheap. You can buy two for $100 cause no one wants them so you could have a complete rebuild kit in the back of your jeep and just swap out whatever you blow up right on the trail.

I'm running 33s on my D30 and D35, but then again I have the 2.5L so I'm not putting a lot of jam through the driveline, and I also don't just peg it and go. I'm swapping to a 4.0L and plan on going 8.8 in the rear and 44 in the front.

[jgpoirier]

Yea I'd like to switch to a 8.25 in the rear, and I know of someone trying to get rid of theirs.
Only problem is I'm back in electrical school for another month making little to no money.
Might buy it anyways though, just cause of opportunity arising.

Thanks,

Guy

[JackstandJohnny]

8.25 isn't much of an upgrade of the D 35........... if you get one out of a 97+ XJ they will have 29 spline axles, but they aren't great.

swap a D44 out of an87,88 XJ or an 8.8 out of an exploder. i was in PNP last week and i think i saw 10

[vantagetes]

8.8 out of a Ranger FXII is stronger than a D44, and has a killer LSD. Plus they have the same bolt pattern. Best part??? Terraflex brake conversion kit: $700. Ford 8.8 WITH disks and the LSD? $600 from wrecker. Plus it's already at 410 gearing!

Only "hard" part is welding brackets as the 8.8 has leafs and TJs use springs.

Here's a sweet install guide just so you have a rough idea and if that's something you'd attempt: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/8.8axle/8.8axle-1.htm

[Immortal]

8.25 isn't much of an upgrade of the D 35........... if you get one out of a 97+ XJ they will have 29 spline axles, but they aren't great.

What? Yes they are. Almost the same diameter.

 

Measurement Jeep Dana 35       Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch

Axle shaft diameter 1.16"        28-spline 1.31" 31-spline

Chrysler 8.25 - 29 spline, 1.21" diameter shafts,

9/10th or 90% of the 8.8. Don't make me smack you.

[Bnine]

Both the 8.25 and 8.8 are shitty c clip junkyard axles.

The only advantages to them is that they are cheap, and readily available compared to a 44. The reason they are cheap and readily available is because jeep guys are the only people that use them, and again, thats because jeep people are cheap to a fault.

8.25's are a pain set up, and have limited gearing selection.

8.8's have weak outer flanges that are prone to bending, are to narrow, and require that the ring gear to be shaved when installing anything deeper then 4.56 gears. 8.8 stock carriers have notoriously bad spider gears that are prone to blowing out. The LSD in a 8.8 is a standard clutch type, and a peice crap among every other OEM LSD thats been put out besides the LSD associated with the rubicon rear truloc.

Ring and pinion and axle strength comparisons between 8.8's, 8.25's, and d44's is irrelevant. None of them blow up on a regular basis.

The d44 is a better rear axle in regards to service, aftermarket support, clearence, and weight. The only downside is that its slightly more expensive.

But, by the time you get a 8.8 into a TJ with the proper bracketry and address the weak stock carrier, and do a super 88 kit to address the weak stock flanges and get rid of the c-clips..............................You've spent just as much money as a good TJ 44 would have run you.



If you dont ever plan on more then 35 inch tires for quite some time, I would simple do a superior c-clip eliminator and truss combonation on your existing 35 and wheel it.

One of the most aggressive wheelers on this board has been trying to break a 27 spline superior c-clip eliminator for over a year now with no luck.

I also have a guy out there on 35's and beadlocks with a super 35 eliminator and truss that has run some of the toughest trails in mclean with no issues.

My wife ran a trussed super 35 for nearly 4 years before we finally took out the locker in a rock crawling competition.

Be carefull what you beleive when reading internet spam. Most people just pimp the crap they run, or the crap they've read about and wish they were running.

[JackstandJohnny]

might as well just drop the money for dynatracs now.............

[hamrtime]

i (ab)used the stock d35 for 10yrs on my wrangler with 33" tires and ltdslip ,
it only lasted 6months with a lockrite that tried to exit through the diff cover

my solution was a d44 from a 87 xj with metric ton tow package ( commanche
has these also )  - same width and bolt pattern as early wrangler yj/tj , its been awhile -
i did everything from drag it out of salvage to new brakes but had someone install the
gears for me ... roughly :

$500     from salvage
$200     new brakes
$100     new brackets
$140     new drums
$1200   410 gears, arb , compressor, brakets weld , gasket/seal/bearings

[Bnine]

Yeah, cause that's what I said.

[hamrtime]

just curious - whats the shipping on a axle from dynatrac or currie - its got to be brutal  ?

i paid $75 to UPS ( whom i try to avoid ) just to get a tow bar ... i still came out ahead of
what i could get local but shipping can really kill a deal ...

[Sean778]

I had an FX4 level II Ranger, and while I never wheeled it hard enough to break anything on the 8.8, I will say that the limited slip was pointless.  The only time it really connected the axles together was around corners on pavement, which is exactly when I would prefer an open diff.  two pennies.

[vantagetes]

Hmm some very good infos in this thread.