Front U-Joints

[Waytec]

What is involved in changing the u-joints on the front axel shafts on a 95 Cherokee?
I dos not look like fun.

[calltrex]

take all brakes off
take  unit bearing and axle out
take bearing off
then change u joint

[BlackYJ]

It is pretty simple and it just the getting the unit bearing off can be tough if it has never been changed.  I recommend loosening the axle hub nut first while the tire is still on because it is torqued to 175 lbs-ft.  The hub nut is 36 mm and if you need one let me know

TIP ANTISEIZE all mating surface when you are putting it all back together.  It definitely helps big time in the future

[dubbleJs]

It is pretty simple and it just the getting the unit bearing off can be tough if it has never been changed.  I recommend loosening the axle hub nut first while the tire is still on because it is torqued to 175 lbs-ft.  The hub nut is 36 mm and if you need one let me know

TIP ANTISEIZE all mating surface when you are putting it all back together.  It definitely helps big time in the future

Yup its a fairly straight forward job but the hub can be tough to get off sometimes. Spray lots of PB or wd40 around it, back the 3 12pt bolts out a little bit and with a socket still on the bolt head give it a few wacks with a hammer. That should usually pop it forward. If that doesnt work, get a hub puller or throw an old rim on there and hit it from behind with a mallet....   

[rws]

I usually undo where the tie rod is attached to the steering knuckle which gives you more room to maneuver when you whack the the socket mentioned in the previous thread.  I also use a 480z BFH.

[hps4evr]

it is possible to change the u-joint without removing the unit bearing... yes, it is a little more difficult, but it saves the hassle of removing the big nut of the axle end and having to re-torque it after. not everyone has the 36mm socket, nor a torque wrench... ok, even the 12-point 13mm socket isnt easy to come by. just a thought.

[XJHERO]

it is possible to change the u-joint without removing the unit bearing... yes, it is a little more difficult, but it saves the hassle of removing the big nut of the axle end and having to re-torque it after. not everyone has the 36mm socket, nor a torque wrench... ok, even the 12-point 13mm socket isnt easy to come by. just a thought.

Wow id like to see sumone do that! It would be impressive

[dubbleJs]

it is possible to change the u-joint without removing the unit bearing... yes, it is a little more difficult, but it saves the hassle of removing the big nut of the axle end and having to re-torque it after. not everyone has the 36mm socket, nor a torque wrench... ok, even the 12-point 13mm socket isnt easy to come by. just a thought.

I found my 12pt 13mm at home depot...took a bit of searching!

[Waytec]

Thanks everyone I will be diving into this thing shortly. As for tools and BFH’s I am a heavy equipment mechanic to so getting a big torque wrench is not an issue, but thanks for the info everyone. I will soaking it in PB starting tomorrow and buy the time I get to changing them they will come out with some ease.

[calltrex]

I just use a impact to get the nut off..

[cLAY]

I use the spicer snap-tite u-joints exculsivly and after 4years I have to replace the first one.  Cheapest I found was $37/each at DSI. This was for a D44 axleshaft. Just picked them up today.

[Rubber Boots]

I found the best way to get the bearing assembly of is to hammer against the bolt holes on the outer portion causing the whole unit to start to rotate.  A couple of good whacks and it usually pops free.  I have done both bearings now twice and never used any antisieze when reassembling.  The first time I did them I tried hammering them from behind and managed to bang up the dust shield pretty good.  Good luck and it should be a fairly easy job.  I changed both sides  in about an hour in my drive way two weeks ago.