Plz help!!! Jeep stuck in mud pit for 3 hours on and now white smoke coming out

[cLAY]

I think parting it out is a bit premature at this point. Even if the motor is toast it can be replaced. Its defiantly worth some money and time to figure out how bad it really is.

First off what is it(year, model, etc) and what tranny do you have? Auto or stick?

I'm guessing its a manual since you drove it home, an auto wouldn't have gone far with water in it.

First try to see what state the motor is in and if its ok then you can worry about the other stuff.

At some point you'll need to pull the oil pan.  This involves undoing a ring of bolts on the pan and dropping it down. Fairly easy on a lifted TJ/YJ, a stock Cherokee may require jacking up the body and dropping the diff a bit to get enough room to maneuver it out. If you think you can handle this job I'd start there. Otherwise drain as much oil and mud as possible, change the filter, refill the motor with oil and idle it for 5-10min. Then drain it and refill it again with fresh fluid and another filter.  Repeat this until it comes out fairly clean and free of water.

Report back to us after this is done. Hopefully you smoking issue will clear up, and the engine will run ok and you can start on the rest of the fluid changes.

Oil and filters can be had at any auto parts store. I'd suggest buying the cheapest oil possible since you'll just be draining it out right away. Also buy a large pan to drain it in to.

14l of water in the motor can push oil/water past the rings and cause smoke. However that much water can also thin out the oil and wipe out the bearings. How did the motor sound when running?

[arabian sahara]

It is a 2001 jeep sahara 4.0 manual, with 31" tires and a 3 in lift. So ya I can fit under it fine. I was thinking of droping the pan, cleaning it out putting it back using some oil flush, run it for 10 mins draining the flush and replacing the filter and oil... I can do that today. But then I have to go get some of the other fluids I need. But I don't know how to drainthw tranny or the front and back deffs.

I think parting it out is a bit premature at this point. Even if the motor is toast it can be replaced. Its defiantly worth some money and time to figure out how bad it really is.

First off what is it(year, model, etc) and what tranny do you have? Auto or stick?

I'm guessing its a manual since you drove it home, an auto wouldn't have gone far with water in it.

First try to see what state the motor is in and if its ok then you can worry about the other stuff.

At some point you'll need to pull the oil pan.  This involves undoing a ring of bolts on the pan and dropping it down. Fairly easy on a lifted TJ/YJ, a stock Cherokee may require jacking up the body and dropping the diff a bit to get enough room to maneuver it out. If you think you can handle this job I'd start there. Otherwise drain as much oil and mud as possible, change the filter, refill the motor with oil and idle it for 5-10min. Then drain it and refill it again with fresh fluid and another filter.  Repeat this until it comes out fairly clean and free of water.

Report back to us after this is done. Hopefully you smoking issue will clear up, and the engine will run ok and you can start on the rest of the fluid changes.

Oil and filters can be had at any auto parts store. I'd suggest buying the cheapest oil possible since you'll just be draining it out right away. Also buy a large pan to drain it in to.

14l of water in the motor can push oil/water past the rings and cause smoke. However that much water can also thin out the oil and wipe out the bearings. How did the motor sound when running?

[Dracitamo]

Check this out... it should help

Transmission
http://www.4x4xplor.com/trannyservice.html

Diffs.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/diff-service.html

Check the site for any other servicing you have questions about. It's one of the better ones I have found.

[arabian sahara]

K will do thanks

Check this out... it should help

Transmission
http://www.4x4xplor.com/trannyservice.html

Diffs.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/diff-service.html

Check the site for any other servicing you have questions about. It's one of the better ones I have found.

[Dracitamo]

Also pull your valve cover. If you are going to be replacing everything, might as well get it open and inspect everything inside.

New gasket should run about 50 bucks, but at least you can check to see if you did any damage and help get rid of some of the mud at the top.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes. 

[cLAY]

For dropping the oil pan you'll need a 3/8s socket set with some extensions. You may have to take the starter off if its in the way, if so unhook the battery. For putting it back on you'll need a new oil pan gasket and RTV sealant, I like the brand "The right stuff", its more money but worth it. You'll also use it later for the diff covers. You'll need a good scrapper to get gasket material off. You'll want everthing nice and clean before putting it back together. May as well get 4-6 cans of brake clean and a few rolls of shop towel. I like the blue ones. Canadian tire is probably your best/cheapest bet for all this stuff. If you have a cordless drill already then get a wire wheel for it. Makes cleaning the gasket stuff off a bit quicker. While at CT see if they have a Haynes manual for your Jeep, it will have nice pics and step by step instructions.

Diffs are easy, put a pan under the center diff, undo the ring of bolts, leave the top one in halfway and smack the cover with a hammer till the seal breaks loose and all the oil comes out. Clean inside with brake clean, clean off old sealer from cover and mating surface. Wipe out the little pool in the bottom of the diff till its empty. Put a ring of sealer on the cover and reinstall cover. Refill with oil, usually 1.5-3L per diff. What kind of locker or limited slip do you have? Some require an additive for the oil.

Manual tranny and t-case will have a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug on the side. May need a transfer pump to fill it or a long hose to reach up into the engine bay. May need to drain and refill a few times to get it all clear.  These may require special sockets, not sure on your model tranny. T-case I usually use large adjustable wrench. This works as long as no one put the plugs in too tight.

Check your owners manual as to what specific oils you need. May need synthetic gear oil for the tranny and diffs($$$$).

It make be worth it to buy a 20L bucket of gear oil(expensive though) and a bucket pump. Will make things much easier/faster.


I wouldn't do an engine flush till the pan has been cleaned out, in fact I wouldn't bother at all. Not really a believer in engine flushes.

No need to pull the valve cover. You won't see mud up there.

[jeepjones]

This whole situation does not sound good for the motor, if muddy oil has circulated, the motor is pretty much toast.

[arabian sahara]

Thanx clay, that's going to help out alot, now I have a big azz shopping list. I have a feeling Canadian tire is going to get to know me more and more. I'll see if one of my buddies in this jeep club can hive me a hand tomorrow with it.

For dropping the oil pan you'll need a 3/8s socket set with some extensions. You may have to take the starter off if its in the way, if so unhook the battery. For putting it back on you'll need a new oil pan gasket and RTV sealant, I like the brand "The right stuff", its more money but worth it. You'll also use it later for the diff covers. You'll need a good scrapper to get gasket material off. You'll want everthing nice and clean before putting it back together. May as well get 4-6 cans of brake clean and a few rolls of shop towel. I like the blue ones. Canadian tire is probably your best/cheapest bet for all this stuff. If you have a cordless drill already then get a wire wheel for it. Makes cleaning the gasket stuff off a bit quicker. While at CT see if they have a Haynes manual for your Jeep, it will have nice pics and step by step instructions.

Diffs are easy, put a pan under the center diff, undo the ring of bolts, leave the top one in halfway and smack the cover with a hammer till the seal breaks loose and all the oil comes out. Clean inside with brake clean, clean off old sealer from cover and mating surface. Wipe out the little pool in the bottom of the diff till its empty. Put a ring of sealer on the cover and reinstall cover. Refill with oil, usually 1.5-3L per diff. What kind of locker or limited slip do you have? Some require an additive for the oil.

Manual tranny and t-case will have a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug on the side. May need a transfer pump to fill it or a long hose to reach up into the engine bay. May need to drain and refill a few times to get it all clear.  These may require special sockets, not sure on your model tranny. T-case I usually use large adjustable wrench. This works as long as no one put the plugs in too tight.

Check your owners manual as to what specific oils you need. May need synthetic gear oil for the tranny and diffs($$$$).

It make be worth it to buy a 20L bucket of gear oil(expensive though) and a bucket pump. Will make things much easier/faster.


I wouldn't do an engine flush till the pan has been cleaned out, in fact I wouldn't bother at all. Not really a believer in engine flushes.

No need to pull the valve cover. You won't see mud up there.

[arabian sahara]

where can i get an oil pan gasket for the jeep?

[JackstandJohnny]

any local parts store like autovalue or NAPA should have em on the shelf

[cLAY]

Canadian tire will also be able to provide a gasket. NAPA parts are usually better but more money than CT. Where ever you go call ahead to make sure its in stock, or can be ordered so its in when you  get there.

[AV.NINE]

Btw the tool you need to drain your tranny is a 17 mm (or 18 , can't remember) hex key (like an Allan key). It's a bitch to find. I have one you can borrow as long as it comes back.

[arabian sahara]

Thanx av.nine. I'll let u know if I need it. I have like 50 hex keys laying around . I'll see if any fit

[apex]

I've got an oilpan gasket I'll sell you. New in box.
$40 come and get it. Calgary NE daytime only.
Greg 403-809-091six

[arabian sahara]

quick update. i have changed the oil 2 times so far and filter, its looking good. but then i desided to look in the air filter ... and that muddy oil is in it. i took it apart and found that its leading to the engine(the mudd) should i even bother going on if its in the engine? is it to late you should i go on and do the tranny and the diffs.by the way ... when i changed the the oil, i turnd it on for 10 mins, i then looked under the car and found that the front diff is leaking for the drivers side ( so the left side) where it looks like there was a screw there or sonthing. and a little bit was dripping from the tranny area... any thoughts