Thoughts on jk lift kits

[Skippy]

So I have decided that my jk is to small and just purchased as set of d44 axles and am now going to redo the lift on the jeep.
What's everyone thoughts on different 4" lifts out there.
Been looking at the rockkrawler, bds, TF, old man emu, aev?
Thinking I would pref a long arm lift with and tough enough to handle Moab and the rubicon trail which I plan to run next year on 37's

I have a $4500 budget for a lift so ideally I wouldbt mine the best bang for my buck so to speak

[reepr]

I just installed a metal cloak game changer few weeks ago and have nothing but amazment as feed back. Check the website for vids and tech.

 here are a few pics, the flex reaching 14 inches of shock travel for a bolt on is unheard. on and off road is very nice and stable.

I still have a couple inches of bumpstop to remove as they are adjustable before full tire stuff on fender . Droop is crazy for a complete drop in system

http://www.metalcloak.com/Metalcloak-JK-Wrangler-Jeep-Suspensions-Lift-Kits-s/231.htm

this is a fairly new lift kit being that metalcloak from what I gather and read on the net has been pretty standup

I spent little more then you have for your budget but you know how jeeps are  
ended up ordering this in from modern if intrested I would let you take a look at mine if u like.

[w squared]

You do know that your JK already came with a Dana 44 in the rear, don't you? Stick in a set of cromo shafts and 5.13 gears and you're pretty much set for 37's. What did you source the 44's out of? another JK? If not, you may have some electronics issues (tone rings for ABS sensors that feed into the ESP system) to overcome.

What do you have for a lift? Why do you want to "re-do" it?

In terms of "tough enough to run moab" - I've broken far more stuff in Alberta than I did in Moab. 37's (or 25's for that matter) on a well set-up rig (anti-rock, beadlocks, good quality short arm lift, winch, lockers, appropriate armor, and a reasonable center of gravity) and some piloting skill will mean that there are very few places you can't go....no need for a long arm just because someone on the interwebs says it'll make yer weenis bigger. 

If you've already got a quality short arm lift, your money might best be spent on flat fenders, a 1" body lift, and beadlocks - that'll let you run 37's easily.

[Skippy]

Cool I will have to check them out. That is some killer flex it looks like.

I really want something that I can control the rebound when I am dropping off rocks and will still handle well on the road as this will be my wife's daily driver.

As for the lift as my sig states I have a 2" BDS. I want something with 14" of travel. The reason I am choosing a long arm, is simple, they will give you a better quality ride with longer durability of all complementing systems.

I am quite aware that I have a D44 in the rear, the axles I bought were from a 2011 rubi, where the front has already been sleeved, gusseted, new ball joints, diff covers, brakes, 5.13 gears,  lockers etc for the same price as buying a new d44 from Chrysler. So given that I have a Sahara it was well worth it to replace both

[w squared]

Marketing claims aside (because everyone's suspension is downright amazing if you believe their claims), you will not be getting 14" of real suspension travel out of a JK unless you are planning on running coilovers, or you are looking at custom built suspension. I don't think that it's possible to make either one of those things happen for $4500 unless you're just buying material and coilovers and doing all the fab work yourself.

Long arms or short arm has almost nothing to do with durability of the components. Your single biggest factor in component durability is going to be your joint quality...followed by the stoutness of the tubing in the arms and the welds. As you've been told in other threads when asking similar questions, JK's are a different ballgame than other Jeeps with shorter control arms....and axle wrap is not an issue on a vehicle that already has a 4-link rear setup.

As far as long arms giving you better ride quality -  yes....but that advantage will not be all that big on a JK with 4 inches of lift. Odds are a short arm with really good shocks will ride just as well as a long arm setup with mediocre shocks at that sort of ride height on a JK.

This doesn't mean that you can't have a great setup that will let you wheel Moab and the Rubicon for that sort of money....but if you try to get a long arm setup with 14" of clean travel on each wheel for $4500 you will probably be dissapointed with the end result.

As far as your current lift goes....2" BDS doesn't tell us much. Do you have adjustable track bars? Track bar brackets? Have you done anything about steering geometry? Drag link flip or drop pitman arm? Have you upgraded any control arms? (or cam bolts  ) Lengthened brake lines? How long can you make those BDS links on your sway bar? Did you go to longer rear links, or just stick the front stock ones on there? New shocks? Coils? Spacers? Extended bumpstops? What about your driveshafts?

Based on what you've described so far, I'd spend the $4500 on getting the re-geared Rnbi axles under your rig (since you've already bought them), buy a quality set of beadlocks and 35" Toyos (insert whining from the Pitbull guys here!), throw on flat fenders or a 1" body lift to clear those 35's, buy an Anti-rock setup, put on a rear bumper that actually helps your departure angle (gen-right or PSC) and make sure that you've got appropriate armor (sliders, evap canister skid, diff covers) Then go run the Rubicon or Moab with that rig.  I betcha you'll find that 35's, lockers, and good piloting skills will take you almost all of the place that you want to go.

[Skippy]

My current lift is a the 2" bds spacers. So it's virtually useless for what I want it to do.

My total budget is 10g's for this winter, the 4500 is what I want to spend on just the suspension components this year, as I am going to be building a 2013 3500 ram up on 37's as well so I cant be blowing 6 grand on suspension.

From my travels on the interweb, it looks as if a there are lots of solid 4" lifts out there around the 4500 range, my question is which ones are people running and have had success with.

[w squared]

Easy. For that sort of budget, spend about $3K on a very good short-arm kit and some flat fenders, and maybe a 1" body lift. You'll be able to clear 37's. You should be able to keep your stock driveshafts, unless you've got an auto. Then you'll probably end up needed a new front drive shaft.

A set of OME coils and long travel OME shocks would be a good place to start, and then piece together the rest of the kit from Currie and other quality suppliers. Front lower control arms to address caster, adjustable track bars, new brake lines, extended bump stops, retainer clips for the rear coils. Another option would be going with a kit from AEV. I also think that Clayton offers a 4.5" short arm kit that they say will let you clear 37's....but also bear in mind that your center of gravity with that setup will be higher than running a shorter lift with flat fenders and/or a body lift.

If you're going to run 37's on those Dana 44's, I would budget for cromo axle shafts. Especially if you like the skinny pedal.

Speaking of axles, have you thought about the joint between the front tubes and the diff housing? Running locked 37's on there will put more strain on those welds, and the small OD of the tubes on the stock JK Dana 44 front axles has been a problem for some guys running bigger tires. Sleeves don't help with that problem. That's why some folks have recommended Dynatrac or Currie axles to you in the past.

I would DEFINITELY spend money on three things that you haven't yet mentioned.

#1. Sliders. You are going to need them in a big way if you want to run the Rubicon.

#2. Rear bumper and maybe rear corner armor. Speaking from personal experience in Moab, the rocks there don't just give the rear end of your rig a gentle nudge like the trees or eroded soil here in Alberta does.

#3. Beadlocks. They don't make your rig more flexy, or bigger, or louder...but they sure do make a difference on the trail.

By the way...who told you that your spacer lift was useless? The single biggest issue that your JKU had when it was stock (other than street tires) was breakover angle. Larger tires and moving the axles 2 inches further from the frame helps that breakover angle a lot. Despite what every lift manufacturer on the planet would have you believe, you can wheel a LOT of places with a stock JK. Sure, a good quality coil lift is way better....but just because you're not ready to run KOH doesn't mean your rig is garbage.

[Skippy]

yah I would rather do a 4" over a 3+1 I have a hate on for body lifts from previous trucks. Seen way to many of them break...

As for beadlocks I will be getting a set,
I am going to build my rear bumper in the spring as soon as I get my shop set up, and same with the sliders, if not I am getting PS sliders, and a Wurx aggression bumper.

I will be buying a set of cromo axles as I think they are a must have for the 44's

as for the joint, I do plan on trussing the axles before they get installed in the spring on top of the sleeves and gussets

[w squared]

Smart move with the truss - just make sure that you find someone to do it that knows exactly what they are doing...otherwise, you axle may be smiling at you when you install it back under your rig.

[Skippy]

ya it shouldnt be to bad i know you just need to pre load the axle which is pretty easy to do

[BrokenAxle]

Take a look at Clayton Off-road too. Top notch stuff from them!

[Skippy]

Just looked at Clayton and their 4.5" with the blistine shocks And tomwoods driveshafts is the route I am going to take.

[DCJEEP]

If you have $4500 to spend check out the deal Tera flex has on right now.  You get there long arm lift/ Speed bumps and free Ella shocks. 

http://www.northridge4x4.com/component/content/article/77-about/140-teraflex-promo

[Bnine]

yah I would rather do a 4" over a 3+1 I have a hate on for body lifts from previous trucks. Seen way to many of them break...

2 things.

First, body lifts dont break unless its farmer kids using stacks of hockey pucks, and that is not even considered a body lift.

Secondly, body lifts are required for any long travel suspension build to be done properly.

If you want 14" suspension that has works porperly, and isnt stupidly tall, you need to incorperate body lift.

Reasons to do a body lift.

With a body lift you can combine a motor mount lift. With a JK's low oil pan, that is a major win.

Lower COG at given shock travel. As in, you want 6" of uptravel, your COG is significantly higher if you do it all with suspension lift.

Improved driveling angles via motor mount lifting.

Improved driline angles via lower suspension ride height.

Increased driveline range of motion due to operating at more favorable angles.

Ability to tuck driveline.

Ability to tuck fuel tank.

Where advanced jeep building is concerned, there is only one reason not to body lift.

Ignorance.


It never fails to boggle my mind that this many years after the TJ and everything that has gone on with link suspension some of you guys are still spending thousands of dollars to put radius arm suspensions under your rigs............................

Or the fact that you can be fooled so easily into thinking a radius arm arm has any advantages over short or mid arm just because its 40 inches long.

Orrrrrr, that anyone would still recommend anything Teraflex does.........lol

Whatever, its your dollars.

[Skippy]

I understand your reasoning behind the body lift, however I stand firm on no body lifts, I would rather drop the cash into a suspension lift that is designed to take all those angles into consideration and upgrade the driveline acordingly.